eBikes by their very nature can in the future require aftermarket updates and support. This cannot be supplied by All Terrain Cycles at distance; if required the work would have to be obtained from your local Brand Dealership, possibly at extra cost to yourself.

Your eBike will be delivered built, set up and updated.

Minimum personal assembly is required.

The Cube Touring Hybrid Pro is proof of just how versatile a great bicycle can be. Its powerful Smart System Bosch Performance motor and 11-speed Shimano gears are capable of whisking you from A to B with the minimum of fuss. There's a set of smooth, strong hydraulic disc brakes to ensure you can stop safely in any weather.

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Practical accessories like the sturdy IC 3.0 carrier system, mudguards and kickstand mean you've everything you need for work or play. Efficient Comfort Geometry and a suspension fork help make every journey a pleasure. And, because we designed a wide range of sizes and a choice of frame styles, there's bound to be one that'll suit you perfectly.

Key Features

• 250W Bosch Motor: Most reliable pedal-assist motor in e-bike industry, capable of sustaining speeds up to 25 km/h
• Hydraulic Disc Brakes: Reliable braking performance to keep you in control, whatever the weather.
• 11 Shimano Gears: Wide range of gears suitable for a range of terrain, with the simplicity of a single shifter.

• Frame: Aluminium Superlite, Gravity Casting Technology, Efficient Comfort Geometry, Full Integrated Battery, 1.5 Headtube, Integrated Carrier 3.0Headtube, Semi Integrated Carrier
• Fork: SR Suntour NVX30 Coil, 63mm
• Motor: Bosch Drive Unit Performance Generation 3 (75Nm) Cruise (250Watt), Smart System
• Battery: Bosch PowerTube 625
• Controller: Bosch LED Remote, Bosch Intuvia 100 display
• Charger:  Bosch 4A
• Number of Gears: 11
• Gear Shifters: Shimano Deore SL-M5100, Rapidfire-Plus
• Chainset: ACID E-Crank, 40T, 170mm
• Chainrings: 40T
• Rear Cassette: Sunrace CSM58, 11-51T
• Chain: KMC X11
• Front Derailleur: N/A
• Rear Derailleur: Shimano Deore RD-M5100-SGS, 11-Speed
• Pedals: ACID PP Trekking
• Rims: CUBE EX23, 36H, Disc, Tubeless Ready
• Front Hub: Shimano HB-TX505, QR, Centerlock
• Rear Hub: Shimano FH-TX505, QR, Centerlock
• Tyres: Schwalbe Big Ben, Performance, K-Guard, 55-622
• Brakes: Shimano BR-MT200, Hydr. Disc Brake (180/180)
• Handlebars: CUBE Comfort Trail Bar, 700mm
• Grips: ACID Travel Comfort
• Headset: ACROS AZF-1031, Top Zero-Stack 1 1/2" (ZS 56mm), Bottom Zero-Stack 1 1/2" (ZS 56mm)
• Stem: CUBE Comfort Stem Pro, 31.8mm, Adjustable
• Saddle: Natural Fit Sequence Comfort
• Seatpost: CUBE Performance Post, 30.9mm
• Mudguards: ACID 65 Integrated Carrier 3.0
• Lights: CUBE Shiny 50 Lux, 12V, DC, ACID Mudguard Rear Light PRO-E, 12V, DC
• Pannier Rack: ACID Integrated Carrier 3.0, CUBE Adapter Compatible
• Weight: 27.1Kg

Cube made our Touring Hybrid to be versatile, easy to live with and comfortable. The powerful Bosch Performance motor with Bosch Smart System and PowerTube battery are all so neatly integrated into the design, you'll barely notice they're there – apart from the extra help at the pedals, of course. Revised Efficient Comfort Geometry centres around a 63mm travel suspension fork for comfort and control, even on rough roads. The IC 3.0 integrated carrier is full of neat design touches to make load carrying simple, and the seat clamp even has a hidden tool in its lever. Add the new ACID chain guard, kickstand and full-length mudguards and you've got everything you need. And, with a choice of classic Men's, Trapeze or Easy Entry frame designs, there'll be a style and size that's perfect for you.

We reserve the right to make changes to the product information contained on this site at any time without notice, including with respect to equipment, specifications, models, colours, materials and pricing. Due to supply chain issues, compatible parts may be substituted at any time without notice.

Bike and frame weights are based on pre-production painted frames at time of publication. Weights may vary in final production.

After the first few weeks of use, the whole bike will settle down. As a result, the gears may need tweaking, some nuts and bolts may need tightening and you may well need to check the adjustment of the saddle and handlebars.

CABLE STRETCH

Gears

Cable stretch tends to occur shortly after a new bike has been ridden a few times. A rear derailleur that we have tuned to hit every gear, nicely and quietly, may now not be making each shift causing a sensation and sound of “being in between gears”. Generally you may have to shift up, or shift down a couple times to quiet it down and settle the derailleur into a “happy gear”. A front derailleur may no longer want to shift all the way onto the big ring or will require a much firmer push to get it there. It is advisable to get the cable tension adjusted as soon as this happens either by your local bike shop. This tune up is considered a necessary part of any bicycles maintenance schedule and as such should not be ignored.

Brakes

Your brakes will also be affected by cable stretch (provided of course that they are NOT hydraulic in which case this does not apply). The symptom here is that they usually start to feel quite loose. i.e. you have to pull the lever much further back or harder in order to get the same stopping power you once had. This is partly why new bikes come with a first free service. If your brakes start feeling a little spongy after a few weeks, you can adjust them at the barrel or the clamp or ask a mechanic at your local bike shop to do it for you.

DISC BRAKES

New disc brakes won’t deliver their full power until the rotor and pads have bedded in. SRAM has a really good guide for bedding in disc brakes: “Accelerate the bike to a moderate speed and then firmly applying the brakes until you are at walking speed. Repeat this process 20 times. Then accelerate the bike to a faster speed and apply the brakes until you are at walking speed. Repeat this process ten times. It’s important that during this process you never come to a complete stop or lock up the wheels at any point.” Doing this process should drastically improve the performance of your brakes and prepare them for many happy rides.

CRANKS

Check the cranks and crank bolts or nut for tightness; grab a crank arm in each hand and try to wiggle them to check for looseness. If there is play in the cranks, the nuts or bolts may need to be tightened. Cranks should be checked after every ride for the first week.

HEADSET

A loose headset can be diagnosed by turning the front wheel to point left or right, holding the front brake on, and then rocking the bike backwards and forwards. Hold your fingers between the stem and the frame. Any movement indicates that you need to tighten the headset.

SADDLE

Check your seat post is not loose and that you have not exceeded the limit marked on the seat post. Once you have checked these, use an allen key to tighten the seat post clamp. Check the seat is secure by giving it another check once you have finished.

STEM

Check that your front wheel and stem do not move independently, and that your handlebar clamp bolts are tight. Perform this check by standing in front of the bike, holding the front wheel between your knees, and twisting the handlebars. You can prevent any movement by tightening the stem bolts and the handlebar clamp with an allen key.

SUSPENSION FORKS

Keeping your mountain bike’s suspension maintained is one of the best ways to ensure you’re getting all the performance you can out of your bike. Plus, giving your fork and shock a few seconds of attention here and there can prevent costly repairs or even replacements.

Dirt is the number one enemy of suspension. After every ride make sure to wipe the seal area and stanchions of your fork and shock. Wipe in a horizontal motion, not vertical as you don’t want to force any debris towards the seals.

Every few rides double check that your suspension sag is correct, as well as your rebound and compression adjustments. If something has changed, or the adjustments aren’t working as before, some maintenance is likely due.

Working on your bike at home can seem daunting, and we'd always recommend you take your bike to a qualified mechanic if possible.