The Rail 9.8 is a long-travel carbon e-MTB that rips like our beefiest trail rigs and powers you right back up the mountain. You get upgraded everything, including the frame for maximum fun on the gnarliest runs. You also get Bosch's latest tech with the new smart system Performance Line CX that has a longer-range 750 Wh battery and cool features that take your ride to the next level like activity tracking, navigation and Bluetooth connectivity.

Project One Upgrades

• Wheels are upgraded to Carbon Line Elite 30
  • The Line Elite 30’s robust rim profile delivers best-in-class strength and durability and resists pinch flats. Plus, simple tubeless set-up makes it easy to run lower pressure for more confidence and a smoother, faster ride
• Fork is upgraded to a ZEB Ultimate
  • ZEB Ultimate is a whole new breed of fork, designed to challenge the limits and take on the world’s toughest Enduro tracks. Going Ultimate has its advantages. Featuring an all-new stiff 38mm chassis designed with the Charger 2.1 damper, DebonAir™ air spring technology, SKF Wiper Seals, and Maxima Plush Fluid. Our highest performing, athlete-proven technologies matched with premium style plays. An anodized crown and ZEB’s signature color – Slab Grey – make a rocking debut.
• The fork and rear shock are fitted with an Airwiz (this is normally only specced on the Rail 9.9)
  • The RockShox AirWiz, is a product that is exclusive to Trek. The ZEB Ultimate fork and Super Deluxe Reactiv Thur-Shaft shock both get an AirWiz module. Using a traffic light system, the AirWiz is designed to give the rider immediate feedback as to the air pressure of their suspension; like an automatic pre-ride check. From the SRAM AXS App on your Smart Phone, you can tell the AirWiz your desired air pressure range. If the fork or shock pressure sits outwith that pre-set range, the light will be red, indicating a top up is required. If the light is green, then you’re good to go.

** NOTE: IMAGES ARE OF STANDARD TREK RAIL 908 XT AND NOT THE PROJECT ONE UPGRADED VERSION **

Key Features

• Display: The full-colour Kiox display shows ride info, connects with your Bluetooth® enabled devices and has a built-in theft prevention feature
• Hydraulic Disc Brakes: Reliable braking performance to keep you in control, whatever the weather.
• RIB: Trek's Removable Integrated Battery (RIB) system looks great and is super user-friendly: it fully hides the battery in the frame for protection, makes it easy remove the battery without tools and lets you mount a water bottle cage

• Frame: OCLV Mountain Carbon main frame, 1.8" lower head tube, Removable Integrated Battery (RIB), Knock Block 2.0, guided internal routing, 34.9 mm seat tube, magnesium rocker link, Motor Armour, Mino Link, ABP, Boost148, 12 mm thru axle, 150 mm travel
• Fork: RockShox ZEB Ultimate
• Rear Shock: RockShox Super Deluxe Ultimate Thru Shaft shock
• Motor: Bosch Performance Line CX
• Controller: Bosch Kiox with Anti-theft solution
• Battery: Bosch PowerTube 750
• Charger: Bosch standard 4A (230V) BES3 charger
• Number of Gears: 12
• Gear Shifters: Shimano XT M8100, 12-speed
• Chainset: E*thirteen E*spec Plus
• Chainrings: 34T
• Rear Cassette: Shimano XT M8100, 10-51, 12-speed
• Chain: Shimano XT M8100, 12-speed
• Rear Derailleur: Shimano XT M8100, long cage, 51T max cog
• Pedals: VP-536 nylon platform
• Wheelset: Bontrager Line Elite 30 TLR Boost 29 MTB Wheel 
• Front Tyre: Bontrager SE5 Team Issue, Tubeless Ready, Core Strength sidewalls, aramid bead, 120 tpi, 29x2.50"
• Rear Tyre: Bontrager SE5 Team Issue, Tubeless Ready, Core Strength sidewalls, aramid bead, 120 tpi, 29x2.50"
• Brakes: Shimano XT M8120 4-piston hydraulic dis, 203/203
• Handlebars: Bontrager Line Pro, OCLV Carbon, 35 mm, 27.5 mm rise, 780 mm width
• Grips: Bontrager XR Trail Elite, nylon lock-on
• Stem: Bontrager Line Pro, 35 mm, Knock Block, Blendr-compatible, 0-degree, 45 mm length
• Saddle: Bontrager Arvada, austenite rails, 138 mm width
• Seatpost: Bontrager Line Elite Dropper, 100 mm travel, MaxFlow, internal routing, 34.9 mm

We reserve the right to make changes to the product information contained on this site at any time without notice, including with respect to equipment, specifications, models, colours, materials and pricing. Due to supply chain issues, compatible parts may be substituted at any time without notice.

Bike and frame weights are based on pre-production painted frames at time of publication. Weights may vary in final production.

After the first few weeks of use, the whole bike will settle down. As a result, the gears may need tweaking, some nuts and bolts may need tightening and you may well need to check the adjustment of the saddle and handlebars.

CABLE STRETCH

Gears

Cable stretch tends to occur shortly after a new bike has been ridden a few times. A rear derailleur that we have tuned to hit every gear, nicely and quietly, may now not be making each shift causing a sensation and sound of “being in between gears”. Generally you may have to shift up, or shift down a couple times to quiet it down and settle the derailleur into a “happy gear”. A front derailleur may no longer want to shift all the way onto the big ring or will require a much firmer push to get it there. It is advisable to get the cable tension adjusted as soon as this happens either by your local bike shop. This tune up is considered a necessary part of any bicycles maintenance schedule and as such should not be ignored.

Brakes

Your brakes will also be affected by cable stretch (provided of course that they are NOT hydraulic in which case this does not apply). The symptom here is that they usually start to feel quite loose. i.e. you have to pull the lever much further back or harder in order to get the same stopping power you once had. This is partly why new bikes come with a first free service. If your brakes start feeling a little spongy after a few weeks, you can adjust them at the barrel or the clamp or ask a mechanic at your local bike shop to do it for you.

DISC BRAKES

New disc brakes won’t deliver their full power until the rotor and pads have bedded in. SRAM has a really good guide for bedding in disc brakes: “Accelerate the bike to a moderate speed and then firmly applying the brakes until you are at walking speed. Repeat this process 20 times. Then accelerate the bike to a faster speed and apply the brakes until you are at walking speed. Repeat this process ten times. It’s important that during this process you never come to a complete stop or lock up the wheels at any point.” Doing this process should drastically improve the performance of your brakes and prepare them for many happy rides.

CRANKS

Check the cranks and crank bolts or nut for tightness; grab a crank arm in each hand and try to wiggle them to check for looseness. If there is play in the cranks, the nuts or bolts may need to be tightened. Cranks should be checked after every ride for the first week.

HEADSET

A loose headset can be diagnosed by turning the front wheel to point left or right, holding the front brake on, and then rocking the bike backwards and forwards. Hold your fingers between the stem and the frame. Any movement indicates that you need to tighten the headset.

SADDLE

Check your seat post is not loose and that you have not exceeded the limit marked on the seat post. Once you have checked these, use an allen key to tighten the seat post clamp. Check the seat is secure by giving it another check once you have finished.

STEM

Check that your front wheel and stem do not move independently, and that your handlebar clamp bolts are tight. Perform this check by standing in front of the bike, holding the front wheel between your knees, and twisting the handlebars. You can prevent any movement by tightening the stem bolts and the handlebar clamp with an allen key.

SUSPENSION FORKS

Keeping your mountain bike’s suspension maintained is one of the best ways to ensure you’re getting all the performance you can out of your bike. Plus, giving your fork and shock a few seconds of attention here and there can prevent costly repairs or even replacements.

Dirt is the number one enemy of suspension. After every ride make sure to wipe the seal area and stanchions of your fork and shock. Wipe in a horizontal motion, not vertical as you don’t want to force any debris towards the seals.

Every few rides double check that your suspension sag is correct, as well as your rebound and compression adjustments. If something has changed, or the adjustments aren’t working as before, some maintenance is likely due.

Working on your bike at home can seem daunting, and we'd always recommend you take your bike to a qualified mechanic if possible.