eBikes by their very nature can require aftermarket updates and support. This cannot be supplied by All Terrain Cycles at distance; if required the work would have to be obtained from your local Brand Dealership, possibly at extra cost to yourself.

Your eBike will be delivered built, set up and updated in two boxes.

Minimum personal assembly is required.

Rail 7 is a long-travel electric mountain bike built for ripping the big stuff. It features the same high-end trail tech as our analogue trail bikes, an upgraded fork, drivetrain, battery and more, plus a powerful new Bosch drive system that's basically like having your own shuttle.

It's right for you if...

You’re looking for a trail-specific e-MTB that’s designed to tackle the same tough terrain as regular trail bikes. You already know just how amazing e-MTBs are on the mountain, and want to invest in better components.

The tech you get

A burly alloy frame with 150mm of rear travel that fully encases a 625 Wh battery, a 160 mm RockShox Domain RC fork, a powerful Bosch Performance Line CX (250 W, 85 Nm) motor that assists up to 20 mph (25 km/h in Europe) and a Purion controller. A smooth-shifting 1x12 Shimano Deore/XT drivetrain, dropper post, powerful Shimano 4-piston brakes for confident descents and Bontrager Line Comp 30 29er wheels that are already completely tubeless-ready, including sealant.

The final word

The Rail 7 features loads of upgraded parts, including the drivetrain, fork and wheels. But the biggest deal is that it comes with a long-range Bosch battery – which means more runs and more fun.

Why you'll love it

• The Bosch motor gives you plenty of power for tackling steep climbs with the efficiency to keep exploring all day
• Rail shreds just as hard as its non-electric brethren, plus it powers you right back up the mountain – no shuttle or lift necessary
• The Purion controller has Walk Assist and an intelligent eMTB mode that automatically delivers the right amount of power based on your terrain
• Made with the same exclusive frame tech as Remedy and Slash, like Mino Link adjustable geometry, a Straight Shot down tube for extra stiffness and Active Braking Pivot (ABP)
• Trek's Removable Integrated Battery (RIB) system looks great and is super user-friendly: it fully hides the battery in the frame for protection, makes it easy remove the battery without tools and lets you mount a water bottle cage

Specifications

• 160mm front and 150mm rear suspension: eats up the rough stuff.
• New Bosch Performance Line CX motor: is lighter and more powerful.
• 625Wh integrated battery: will keep you riding for longer.

• Frame: Alpha Platinum Aluminium, Removable Integrated Battery (RIB), tapered head tube, Control Freak internal routing, magnesium rocker link, Motor Armour, Mino Link, ABP, Boost148, 12 mm thru-axle, 150 mm travel
• Rear Suspension: RockShox Deluxe Select+, 230x57.5 mm
• Fork: RockShox Domain RC, DebonAir spring, Motion Control damper, lockout, tapered steerer, 44 mm offset, an oversized crown for eMTB, Boost110, 15 mm Maxle Stealth, 160 mm travel
• Motor: NEW Bosch Performance Line CX, 250 Watt, 75Nm, magnesium body, 15.5 mph / 25 km/h max assist
• Battery: Bosch PowerTube, vertical, 625 wh
• Controller: Bosch Purion
• Number of Gears: 12
• Gear Shifters: Shimano SLX 7100
• Chainset: Ethirteen Espec 34t 165mm
• Chainrings: 34T
• Rear Cassette: Shimano Deore 6100, 10-51, 12-speed
• Chain: Shimano M6100, 12-speed
• Front Derailleur: N/A
• Rear Derailleur: Shimano Deore XT M8100
• Bottom Bracket: N/A
• Pedals: VP-536 nylon platform
• Rims: Bontrager Line 30, Tubeless Ready, 28-hole, Presta valve
• Front Hub: Bontrager sealed bearing, alloy axle, 6-bolt, Boost110, 15 mm thru-axle
• Rear Hub: Bontrager alloy, sealed bearing, 6-bolt, Shimano microspline freehub, Boost148, 12 mm thru-axle
• Front Tyre: Bontrager XR5 Team, aramid bead, 30 TPI, 29x2.50"
• Rear Tyre: Bontrager XR5 Team, aramid bead, 30 TPI, 29x2.50"
• Brakes: Shimano Deore 4-piston hydraulic disc
• Handlebars: Bontrager alloy, 31.8 mm, 15 mm rise 780mm
• Handlebar Tape: Bontrager XR Trail Comp, lock-on
• Headset: Knock Block Integrated, cartridge bearing, 1-1/8" top, 1.5"
• Stem: Bontrager Rhythm Comp, 31.8 mm, Knock Block, 0-degree
• Saddle: Bontrager Arvada, steel rails, 138 mm width
• Seatpost: TranzX JD-YSP18, 150 mm travel, internal routing, 31.6 mm, 445 mm length
• Accessories: N/A
• Weight: M - 23.53 kg / 51.88 lbs (with tubes) TBC

 We reserve the right to make changes to the product information contained on this site at any time without notice, including with respect to equipment, specifications, models, colours, materials and pricing. Due to supply chain issues, compatible parts may be substituted at any time without notice.

Bike and frame weights are based on pre-production painted frames at time of publication. Weights may vary in final production.

After the first few weeks of use, the whole bike will settle down. As a result, the gears may need tweaking, some nuts and bolts may need tightening and you may well need to check the adjustment of the saddle and handlebars.

CABLE STRETCH

Gears

Cable stretch tends to occur shortly after a new bike has been ridden a few times. A rear derailleur that we have tuned to hit every gear, nicely and quietly, may now not be making each shift causing a sensation and sound of “being in between gears”. Generally you may have to shift up, or shift down a couple times to quiet it down and settle the derailleur into a “happy gear”. A front derailleur may no longer want to shift all the way onto the big ring or will require a much firmer push to get it there. It is advisable to get the cable tension adjusted as soon as this happens either by your local bike shop. This tune up is considered a necessary part of any bicycles maintenance schedule and as such should not be ignored.

Brakes

Your brakes will also be affected by cable stretch (provided of course that they are NOT hydraulic in which case this does not apply). The symptom here is that they usually start to feel quite loose. i.e. you have to pull the lever much further back or harder in order to get the same stopping power you once had. This is partly why new bikes come with a first free service. If your brakes start feeling a little spongy after a few weeks, you can adjust them at the barrel or the clamp or ask a mechanic at your local bike shop to do it for you.

DISC BRAKES

New disc brakes won’t deliver their full power until the rotor and pads have bedded in. SRAM has a really good guide for bedding in disc brakes: “Accelerate the bike to a moderate speed and then firmly applying the brakes until you are at walking speed. Repeat this process 20 times. Then accelerate the bike to a faster speed and apply the brakes until you are at walking speed. Repeat this process ten times. It’s important that during this process you never come to a complete stop or lock up the wheels at any point.” Doing this process should drastically improve the performance of your brakes and prepare them for many happy rides.

CRANKS

Check the cranks and crank bolts or nut for tightness; grab a crank arm in each hand and try to wiggle them to check for looseness. If there is play in the cranks, the nuts or bolts may need to be tightened. Cranks should be checked after every ride for the first week.

HEADSET

A loose headset can be diagnosed by turning the front wheel to point left or right, holding the front brake on, and then rocking the bike backwards and forwards. Hold your fingers between the stem and the frame. Any movement indicates that you need to tighten the headset.

SADDLE

Check your seat post is not loose and that you have not exceeded the limit marked on the seat post. Once you have checked these, use an allen key to tighten the seat post clamp. Check the seat is secure by giving it another check once you have finished.

STEM

Check that your front wheel and stem do not move independently, and that your handlebar clamp bolts are tight. Perform this check by standing in front of the bike, holding the front wheel between your knees, and twisting the handlebars. You can prevent any movement by tightening the stem bolts and the handlebar clamp with an allen key.

SUSPENSION FORKS

Keeping your mountain bike’s suspension maintained is one of the best ways to ensure you’re getting all the performance you can out of your bike. Plus, giving your fork and shock a few seconds of attention here and there can prevent costly repairs or even replacements.

Dirt is the number one enemy of suspension. After every ride make sure to wipe the seal area and stanchions of your fork and shock. Wipe in a horizontal motion, not vertical as you don’t want to force any debris towards the seals.

Every few rides double check that your suspension sag is correct, as well as your rebound and compression adjustments. If something has changed, or the adjustments aren’t working as before, some maintenance is likely due.

Working on your bike at home can seem daunting, and we'd always recommend you take your bike to a qualified mechanic if possible.