TREK CHECKPOINT SLR 9 SRAM RED ETAP AXS GRAVEL BIKE 2024 - ERA WHITE/EMERALD IRIS

TREK CHECKPOINT SLR 9 SRAM RED ETAP AXS GRAVEL BIKE 2024 - ERA WHITE/EMERALD IRIS

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Product Details

AVAILABILITY & ORDER TERMS & CONDITIONS

Checkpoint SLR 9s  are none cancellable custom builds with up to 120 day lead time. Please ensure you are ordering the correct size and specification for your requirements as cancellations and returns cannot be accepted.

If you require further assistance prior to ordering contact us at sales@allterraincycles.co.uk or Telephone : 01274 588 488.

The Checkpoint SLR 9 eTap is our best carbon gravel bike, and it's built for crushing the world's greatest gravel races. The lightweight 700 Series OCLV Carbon frame has gravel-smoothing IsoSpeed and a nimble-yet-stable progressive geometry. Plus, a smart and smooth Sram RED wireless electronic drivetrain for blazing-fast shifts, Aeolus RSL 37 carbon wheels and extra mounts for gear and accessories. This bike is a true gravel-grinding powerhouse.

A 700 Series OCLV Carbon frame with Front IsoSpeed and carbon armour, a progressive geometry that's stable at speed and efficiency when you're grinding up a climb, internal storage, hidden cables that won't interfere with bags, and integrated frame bag and mudguard mounts. Plus, a carbon fork, 2x12 Sram RED eTap AXS wireless electronic drivetrain with a wide-range cassette and Bontrager Aeolus RSL 37 carbon wheels with wide 700x40c gravel tyres that provide extra traction and stability. Fits up to 45 c tyres.

Key Features

  • Geometry: All-new progressive geometry is quick and nimble yet keeps you stable and in control on fast, choppy descents
  • ISO Speed: The controlled rebound of the IsoSpeed decoupler soaks up fatiguing bumps without bouncing you around
  • Sram Red: The Sram RED eTap AXS drivetrain is smart, smooth and completely wireless

Full Specification

  • Frame: 700 Series OCLV Carbon, IsoSpeed, downtube storage door, internal routing, Ride Tuned seat mast, chain keeper, T47 BB, mudguard mounts, integrated frame bag mounts, flat-mount disc, 142x12 mm thru-axle
  • Fork: Checkpoint carbon, tapered carbon steerer, rack mounts, mudguard mounts, flat-mount disc, 12x100 mm thru-axle
  • Gear Shifters: Sram RED eTap AXS, 12-speed
  • Chainset: Sram RED AXS, DUB GLS spindle
  • Rear Cassette: Sram XG-1271, 10-44, 12-speed
  • Chain: Sram RED D1, 12-speed
  • Rear Derailleur: Sram RED XPLR eTap AXS, 44T max cog
  • Bottom Bracket: Sram DUB, T47 thread, internal bearing
  • Pedals: Not Supplied
  • Wheelset: Bontrager Aeolus RSL 37, OCLV Carbon, Tubeless Ready, 37mm rim depth
  • Tyres: Bontrager GR1 Team Issue, Tubeless Ready, Inner Strength casing, aramid bead, 120 TPI, 700x40 c
  • Brakes: Sram CenterLine X, CenterLock, round edge, 160/160
  • Handlebars: Bontrager Pro IsoCore VR-SF
  • Bar Tape: Bontrager Super tack Perf tape
  • Stem: Bontrager RSL Carbon, 31.8 mm clamp, 7-degree
  • Saddle: Bontrager P3 Verse Pro, carbon rails
  • Seatpost: Bontrager carbon seat mast cap, 5 mm offset
  • Accessories: Bontrager BITS Internal Frame Storage Bag
  • Weight: N/A

    We reserve the right to make changes to the product information contained on this site at any time without notice, including with respect to equipment, specifications, models, colours, materials and pricing. Due to supply chain issues, compatible parts may be substituted at any time without notice.

    Bike and frame weights are based on pre-production painted frames at time of publication. Weights may vary in final production.

    How to Build Your Bike

    Aftercare

    After the first few weeks of use, the whole bike will settle down. As a result, the gears may need tweaking, some nuts and bolts may need tightening and you may well need to check the adjustment of the saddle and handlebars.

    CABLE STRETCH

    Gears

    Cable stretch tends to occur shortly after a new bike has been ridden a few times. A rear derailleur that we have tuned to hit every gear, nicely and quietly, may now not be making each shift causing a sensation and sound of “being in between gears”. Generally you may have to shift up, or shift down a couple times to quiet it down and settle the derailleur into a “happy gear”. A front derailleur may no longer want to shift all the way onto the big ring or will require a much firmer push to get it there. It is advisable to get the cable tension adjusted as soon as this happens either by your local bike shop. This tune up is considered a necessary part of any bicycles maintenance schedule and as such should not be ignored.

    Brakes

    Your brakes will also be affected by cable stretch (provided of course that they are NOT hydraulic in which case this does not apply). The symptom here is that they usually start to feel quite loose. i.e. you have to pull the lever much further back or harder in order to get the same stopping power you once had. This is partly why new bikes come with a first free service. If your brakes start feeling a little spongy after a few weeks, you can adjust them at the barrel or the clamp or ask a mechanic at your local bike shop to do it for you.

    DISC BRAKES

    New disc brakes won’t deliver their full power until the rotor and pads have bedded in. SRAM has a really good guide for bedding in disc brakes: “Accelerate the bike to a moderate speed and then firmly applying the brakes until you are at walking speed. Repeat this process 20 times. Then accelerate the bike to a faster speed and apply the brakes until you are at walking speed. Repeat this process ten times. It’s important that during this process you never come to a complete stop or lock up the wheels at any point.” Doing this process should drastically improve the performance of your brakes and prepare them for many happy rides.

    CRANKS

    Check the cranks and crank bolts or nut for tightness; grab a crank arm in each hand and try to wiggle them to check for looseness. If there is play in the cranks, the nuts or bolts may need to be tightened. Cranks should be checked after every ride for the first week.

    HEADSET

    A loose headset can be diagnosed by turning the front wheel to point left or right, holding the front brake on, and then rocking the bike backwards and forwards. Hold your fingers between the stem and the frame. Any movement indicates that you need to tighten the headset.

    SADDLE

    Check your seat post is not loose and that you have not exceeded the limit marked on the seat post. Once you have checked these, use an allen key to tighten the seat post clamp. Check the seat is secure by giving it another check once you have finished.

    STEM

    Check that your front wheel and stem do not move independently, and that your handlebar clamp bolts are tight. Perform this check by standing in front of the bike, holding the front wheel between your knees, and twisting the handlebars. You can prevent any movement by tightening the stem bolts and the handlebar clamp with an allen key.

    SUSPENSION FORKS

    Keeping your mountain bike’s suspension maintained is one of the best ways to ensure you’re getting all the performance you can out of your bike. Plus, giving your fork and shock a few seconds of attention here and there can prevent costly repairs or even replacements.

    Dirt is the number one enemy of suspension. After every ride make sure to wipe the seal area and stanchions of your fork and shock. Wipe in a horizontal motion, not vertical as you don’t want to force any debris towards the seals.

    Every few rides double check that your suspension sag is correct, as well as your rebound and compression adjustments. If something has changed, or the adjustments aren’t working as before, some maintenance is likely due.

    Working on your bike at home can seem daunting, and we'd always recommend you take your bike to a qualified mechanic if possible.

     

    TREK CHECKPOINT SLR 9 SRAM RED ETAP AXS GRAVEL BIKE 2024 - ERA WHITE/EMERALD IRIS

    TREK CHECKPOINT SLR 9 SRAM RED ETAP AXS GRAVEL BIKE 2024 - ERA WHITE/EMERALD IRIS

    Regular price £8,999.00
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    Regular price Was £12,050.00 Sale price £8,999.00

    SKU: 5262703

    EPOS Code:


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    Product Description

    AVAILABILITY & ORDER TERMS & CONDITIONS

    Checkpoint SLR 9s  are none cancellable custom builds with up to 120 day lead time. Please ensure you are ordering the correct size and specification for your requirements as cancellations and returns cannot be accepted.

    If you require further assistance prior to ordering contact us at sales@allterraincycles.co.uk or Telephone : 01274 588 488.

    The Checkpoint SLR 9 eTap is our best carbon gravel bike, and it's built for crushing the world's greatest gravel races. The lightweight 700 Series OCLV Carbon frame has gravel-smoothing IsoSpeed and a nimble-yet-stable progressive geometry. Plus, a smart and smooth Sram RED wireless electronic drivetrain for blazing-fast shifts, Aeolus RSL 37 carbon wheels and extra mounts for gear and accessories. This bike is a true gravel-grinding powerhouse.

    A 700 Series OCLV Carbon frame with Front IsoSpeed and carbon armour, a progressive geometry that's stable at speed and efficiency when you're grinding up a climb, internal storage, hidden cables that won't interfere with bags, and integrated frame bag and mudguard mounts. Plus, a carbon fork, 2x12 Sram RED eTap AXS wireless electronic drivetrain with a wide-range cassette and Bontrager Aeolus RSL 37 carbon wheels with wide 700x40c gravel tyres that provide extra traction and stability. Fits up to 45 c tyres.

    Key Features

    • Geometry: All-new progressive geometry is quick and nimble yet keeps you stable and in control on fast, choppy descents
    • ISO Speed: The controlled rebound of the IsoSpeed decoupler soaks up fatiguing bumps without bouncing you around
    • Sram Red: The Sram RED eTap AXS drivetrain is smart, smooth and completely wireless

    Full Specification

    • Frame: 700 Series OCLV Carbon, IsoSpeed, downtube storage door, internal routing, Ride Tuned seat mast, chain keeper, T47 BB, mudguard mounts, integrated frame bag mounts, flat-mount disc, 142x12 mm thru-axle
    • Fork: Checkpoint carbon, tapered carbon steerer, rack mounts, mudguard mounts, flat-mount disc, 12x100 mm thru-axle
    • Gear Shifters: Sram RED eTap AXS, 12-speed
    • Chainset: Sram RED AXS, DUB GLS spindle
    • Rear Cassette: Sram XG-1271, 10-44, 12-speed
    • Chain: Sram RED D1, 12-speed
    • Rear Derailleur: Sram RED XPLR eTap AXS, 44T max cog
    • Bottom Bracket: Sram DUB, T47 thread, internal bearing
    • Pedals: Not Supplied
    • Wheelset: Bontrager Aeolus RSL 37, OCLV Carbon, Tubeless Ready, 37mm rim depth
    • Tyres: Bontrager GR1 Team Issue, Tubeless Ready, Inner Strength casing, aramid bead, 120 TPI, 700x40 c
    • Brakes: Sram CenterLine X, CenterLock, round edge, 160/160
    • Handlebars: Bontrager Pro IsoCore VR-SF
    • Bar Tape: Bontrager Super tack Perf tape
    • Stem: Bontrager RSL Carbon, 31.8 mm clamp, 7-degree
    • Saddle: Bontrager P3 Verse Pro, carbon rails
    • Seatpost: Bontrager carbon seat mast cap, 5 mm offset
    • Accessories: Bontrager BITS Internal Frame Storage Bag
    • Weight: N/A

      We reserve the right to make changes to the product information contained on this site at any time without notice, including with respect to equipment, specifications, models, colours, materials and pricing. Due to supply chain issues, compatible parts may be substituted at any time without notice.

      Bike and frame weights are based on pre-production painted frames at time of publication. Weights may vary in final production.

      How to Build Your Bike

      Aftercare

      After the first few weeks of use, the whole bike will settle down. As a result, the gears may need tweaking, some nuts and bolts may need tightening and you may well need to check the adjustment of the saddle and handlebars.

      CABLE STRETCH

      Gears

      Cable stretch tends to occur shortly after a new bike has been ridden a few times. A rear derailleur that we have tuned to hit every gear, nicely and quietly, may now not be making each shift causing a sensation and sound of “being in between gears”. Generally you may have to shift up, or shift down a couple times to quiet it down and settle the derailleur into a “happy gear”. A front derailleur may no longer want to shift all the way onto the big ring or will require a much firmer push to get it there. It is advisable to get the cable tension adjusted as soon as this happens either by your local bike shop. This tune up is considered a necessary part of any bicycles maintenance schedule and as such should not be ignored.

      Brakes

      Your brakes will also be affected by cable stretch (provided of course that they are NOT hydraulic in which case this does not apply). The symptom here is that they usually start to feel quite loose. i.e. you have to pull the lever much further back or harder in order to get the same stopping power you once had. This is partly why new bikes come with a first free service. If your brakes start feeling a little spongy after a few weeks, you can adjust them at the barrel or the clamp or ask a mechanic at your local bike shop to do it for you.

      DISC BRAKES

      New disc brakes won’t deliver their full power until the rotor and pads have bedded in. SRAM has a really good guide for bedding in disc brakes: “Accelerate the bike to a moderate speed and then firmly applying the brakes until you are at walking speed. Repeat this process 20 times. Then accelerate the bike to a faster speed and apply the brakes until you are at walking speed. Repeat this process ten times. It’s important that during this process you never come to a complete stop or lock up the wheels at any point.” Doing this process should drastically improve the performance of your brakes and prepare them for many happy rides.

      CRANKS

      Check the cranks and crank bolts or nut for tightness; grab a crank arm in each hand and try to wiggle them to check for looseness. If there is play in the cranks, the nuts or bolts may need to be tightened. Cranks should be checked after every ride for the first week.

      HEADSET

      A loose headset can be diagnosed by turning the front wheel to point left or right, holding the front brake on, and then rocking the bike backwards and forwards. Hold your fingers between the stem and the frame. Any movement indicates that you need to tighten the headset.

      SADDLE

      Check your seat post is not loose and that you have not exceeded the limit marked on the seat post. Once you have checked these, use an allen key to tighten the seat post clamp. Check the seat is secure by giving it another check once you have finished.

      STEM

      Check that your front wheel and stem do not move independently, and that your handlebar clamp bolts are tight. Perform this check by standing in front of the bike, holding the front wheel between your knees, and twisting the handlebars. You can prevent any movement by tightening the stem bolts and the handlebar clamp with an allen key.

      SUSPENSION FORKS

      Keeping your mountain bike’s suspension maintained is one of the best ways to ensure you’re getting all the performance you can out of your bike. Plus, giving your fork and shock a few seconds of attention here and there can prevent costly repairs or even replacements.

      Dirt is the number one enemy of suspension. After every ride make sure to wipe the seal area and stanchions of your fork and shock. Wipe in a horizontal motion, not vertical as you don’t want to force any debris towards the seals.

      Every few rides double check that your suspension sag is correct, as well as your rebound and compression adjustments. If something has changed, or the adjustments aren’t working as before, some maintenance is likely due.

      Working on your bike at home can seem daunting, and we'd always recommend you take your bike to a qualified mechanic if possible.