TREK DOMANE+ AL 5 ELECTRIC ROAD BIKE 2024 - TREK BLACK
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Product Details

The Domane+ AL 5 is a lightweight alloy e-road bike that delivers an authentic road bike feel with the benefit of an electric boost. The intuitive and natural-feeling HyDrive pedal assist system lets you keep pace with friends, crush hilly terrain or push yourself harder on training rides.


It's right for you if...

You want a high-value e-road bike that looks and rides like a traditional road bike. You’re looking for a natural-feeling boost that adds extra capability to training rides and club rides.


The tech you get

A lightweight aluminium frame and fork, a natural-feeling HyDrive hub motor (250 W, 40 Nm) that assists up to 20 mph (25 km/h in Europe) with a 250 Wh battery for a range of up to 90 kilometres per charge when ridden in eco mode. Plus a workhorse Shimano 105 2x11 drivetrain, tubeless-ready wheels and vibration-absorbing Elite IsoZone handlebars.

Key Features
  • Range extender compatible: Double your range with a 250 Wh plug-and-play Range Extender battery that sits in your bottle cage
  • Fast and efficient HyDrive Motor: Assists up to 25km/h, this pedal assist system has a hub motor for a more natural ride feel.
  • Shimano 105 drivetrain: Delivers exceptional shifting, with a wide range of gears suitable for all terrain.
Full Specification
  • Frame: 100 Series Alpha Aluminium, hub drive system, tapered head tube, internal routing, flat-mount disc, rack and mudguard mounts
  • Fork: Domane+ carbon, tapered alloy steerer, internal brake routing, fender mounts, flat mount disc, 12x100mm thru axle
  • Motor: HyDrive hub drive motor, 40 Nm, 250 W
  • Battery: 250 Wh
  • Controller: Top-mounted buttons with top tube integrated display
  • Gear Shifters: Shimano 105 R7000/7020, 11-speed
  • Chainset: FSA Vero Pro, 50/34, 165-175 mm
  • Rear Cassette: Shimano 105 HG700-11, 11-34, 11-speed
  • Chain: Shimano 105 HG601, 11-speed
  • Front Derailleur: Shimano 105 R7000, 31 mm clamp
  • Rear Derailleur: Shimano 105 R7000, long cage, 34T max cog
  • Bottom Bracket: Torque sensor, threaded, 110 mm spindle
  • Rims: Bontrager Paradigm Tubeless Ready, 28-hole, 21 mm width, Presta valve
  • Front Hub: Formula RX-812 alloy, sealed bearing, 6-bolt, 100x12mm thru axle
  • Rear Hub: HyDrive hub drive motor, 40 Nm, 250 W
  • Front Tyre: Bontrager R1 Hard-Case Lite, wire bead, 60 tpi, 700x32 c
  • Rear Tyre: Bontrager R1 Hard-Case Lite, wire bead, 60 tpi, 700x32 c
  • Brakes: Shimano 105 hydraulic disc, Shimano RT66, 6-bolt, 160 mm
  • Handlebars: Bontrager Elite IsoZone VR-SF, alloy, 31.8 mm, internal Di2 routing, 75 mm reach, 128 mm drop, 38-44 cm width
  • Tape: Bontrager Supertack Perf tape
  • Stem: Bontrager Elite, 31.8 mm, Blendr-compatible, 7-degree, 80-110 mm Length
  • Seatpost: Bontrager carbon, 27.2 mm, 8 mm offset, 330 mm length
  • Saddle: Bontrager P3 Verse Comp, steel rails, 155-145 mm width
  • Accessories: 2A, 42V output, 100V–240V AC input charger, Max Tyre size 38c without mudguards, 32c with mudguards
  • Weight: 56 - 14.06 kg / 31 lbs This bike has a maximum total weight limit (combined weight of bicycle, rider and cargo) of 125 kg (275 lb).

What is the motor power/output?
250 Watt maximum continuous rated power, 358 Watt peak power, 40 Nm torque.
How do I change assist levels?
Hood-mounted controls let you change assist while keeping your hands on the bars.
What type of charger does it come with and how long does it take to charge the battery?
The battery will charge via a port in the downtube in about four hours with the included 2-amp charger.
How much does the battery weigh?
3.5 lb/1.59 kg
Is the battery removable? What if I need to replace it?
It is removable by a trained technician only. Please contact us for replacement batteries.


We reserve the right to make changes to the product information contained on this site at any time without notice, including with respect to equipment, specifications, models, colours, materials and pricing. Due to supply chain issues, compatible parts may be substituted at any time without notice.

Bike and frame weights are based on pre-production painted frames at time of publication. Weights may vary in final production.


 

How to Build Your Bike

Aftercare

After the first few weeks of use, the whole bike will settle down. As a result, the gears may need tweaking, some nuts and bolts may need tightening and you may well need to check the adjustment of the saddle and handlebars.

CABLE STRETCH

Gears

Cable stretch tends to occur shortly after a new bike has been ridden a few times. A rear derailleur that we have tuned to hit every gear, nicely and quietly, may now not be making each shift causing a sensation and sound of “being in between gears”. Generally you may have to shift up, or shift down a couple times to quiet it down and settle the derailleur into a “happy gear”. A front derailleur may no longer want to shift all the way onto the big ring or will require a much firmer push to get it there. It is advisable to get the cable tension adjusted as soon as this happens either by your local bike shop. This tune up is considered a necessary part of any bicycles maintenance schedule and as such should not be ignored.

Brakes

Your brakes will also be affected by cable stretch (provided of course that they are NOT hydraulic in which case this does not apply). The symptom here is that they usually start to feel quite loose. i.e. you have to pull the lever much further back or harder in order to get the same stopping power you once had. This is partly why new bikes come with a first free service. If your brakes start feeling a little spongy after a few weeks, you can adjust them at the barrel or the clamp or ask a mechanic at your local bike shop to do it for you.

DISC BRAKES

New disc brakes won’t deliver their full power until the rotor and pads have bedded in. SRAM has a really good guide for bedding in disc brakes: “Accelerate the bike to a moderate speed and then firmly applying the brakes until you are at walking speed. Repeat this process 20 times. Then accelerate the bike to a faster speed and apply the brakes until you are at walking speed. Repeat this process ten times. It’s important that during this process you never come to a complete stop or lock up the wheels at any point.” Doing this process should drastically improve the performance of your brakes and prepare them for many happy rides.

CRANKS

Check the cranks and crank bolts or nut for tightness; grab a crank arm in each hand and try to wiggle them to check for looseness. If there is play in the cranks, the nuts or bolts may need to be tightened. Cranks should be checked after every ride for the first week.

HEADSET

A loose headset can be diagnosed by turning the front wheel to point left or right, holding the front brake on, and then rocking the bike backwards and forwards. Hold your fingers between the stem and the frame. Any movement indicates that you need to tighten the headset.

SADDLE

Check your seat post is not loose and that you have not exceeded the limit marked on the seat post. Once you have checked these, use an allen key to tighten the seat post clamp. Check the seat is secure by giving it another check once you have finished.

STEM

Check that your front wheel and stem do not move independently, and that your handlebar clamp bolts are tight. Perform this check by standing in front of the bike, holding the front wheel between your knees, and twisting the handlebars. You can prevent any movement by tightening the stem bolts and the handlebar clamp with an allen key.

SUSPENSION FORKS

Keeping your mountain bike’s suspension maintained is one of the best ways to ensure you’re getting all the performance you can out of your bike. Plus, giving your fork and shock a few seconds of attention here and there can prevent costly repairs or even replacements.

Dirt is the number one enemy of suspension. After every ride make sure to wipe the seal area and stanchions of your fork and shock. Wipe in a horizontal motion, not vertical as you don’t want to force any debris towards the seals.

Every few rides double check that your suspension sag is correct, as well as your rebound and compression adjustments. If something has changed, or the adjustments aren’t working as before, some maintenance is likely due.

Working on your bike at home can seem daunting, and we'd always recommend you take your bike to a qualified mechanic if possible.

 

TREK DOMANE+ AL 5 ELECTRIC ROAD BIKE 2024 - TREK BLACK

Regular price £2,891.80
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Regular price Was £3,050.00 Sale price £2,891.80

SKU: 5270310

Product ID: 160284

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Product Description

The Domane+ AL 5 is a lightweight alloy e-road bike that delivers an authentic road bike feel with the benefit of an electric boost. The intuitive and natural-feeling HyDrive pedal assist system lets you keep pace with friends, crush hilly terrain or push yourself harder on training rides.


It's right for you if...

You want a high-value e-road bike that looks and rides like a traditional road bike. You’re looking for a natural-feeling boost that adds extra capability to training rides and club rides.


The tech you get

A lightweight aluminium frame and fork, a natural-feeling HyDrive hub motor (250 W, 40 Nm) that assists up to 20 mph (25 km/h in Europe) with a 250 Wh battery for a range of up to 90 kilometres per charge when ridden in eco mode. Plus a workhorse Shimano 105 2x11 drivetrain, tubeless-ready wheels and vibration-absorbing Elite IsoZone handlebars.

Key Features
  • Range extender compatible: Double your range with a 250 Wh plug-and-play Range Extender battery that sits in your bottle cage
  • Fast and efficient HyDrive Motor: Assists up to 25km/h, this pedal assist system has a hub motor for a more natural ride feel.
  • Shimano 105 drivetrain: Delivers exceptional shifting, with a wide range of gears suitable for all terrain.
Full Specification
  • Frame: 100 Series Alpha Aluminium, hub drive system, tapered head tube, internal routing, flat-mount disc, rack and mudguard mounts
  • Fork: Domane+ carbon, tapered alloy steerer, internal brake routing, fender mounts, flat mount disc, 12x100mm thru axle
  • Motor: HyDrive hub drive motor, 40 Nm, 250 W
  • Battery: 250 Wh
  • Controller: Top-mounted buttons with top tube integrated display
  • Gear Shifters: Shimano 105 R7000/7020, 11-speed
  • Chainset: FSA Vero Pro, 50/34, 165-175 mm
  • Rear Cassette: Shimano 105 HG700-11, 11-34, 11-speed
  • Chain: Shimano 105 HG601, 11-speed
  • Front Derailleur: Shimano 105 R7000, 31 mm clamp
  • Rear Derailleur: Shimano 105 R7000, long cage, 34T max cog
  • Bottom Bracket: Torque sensor, threaded, 110 mm spindle
  • Rims: Bontrager Paradigm Tubeless Ready, 28-hole, 21 mm width, Presta valve
  • Front Hub: Formula RX-812 alloy, sealed bearing, 6-bolt, 100x12mm thru axle
  • Rear Hub: HyDrive hub drive motor, 40 Nm, 250 W
  • Front Tyre: Bontrager R1 Hard-Case Lite, wire bead, 60 tpi, 700x32 c
  • Rear Tyre: Bontrager R1 Hard-Case Lite, wire bead, 60 tpi, 700x32 c
  • Brakes: Shimano 105 hydraulic disc, Shimano RT66, 6-bolt, 160 mm
  • Handlebars: Bontrager Elite IsoZone VR-SF, alloy, 31.8 mm, internal Di2 routing, 75 mm reach, 128 mm drop, 38-44 cm width
  • Tape: Bontrager Supertack Perf tape
  • Stem: Bontrager Elite, 31.8 mm, Blendr-compatible, 7-degree, 80-110 mm Length
  • Seatpost: Bontrager carbon, 27.2 mm, 8 mm offset, 330 mm length
  • Saddle: Bontrager P3 Verse Comp, steel rails, 155-145 mm width
  • Accessories: 2A, 42V output, 100V–240V AC input charger, Max Tyre size 38c without mudguards, 32c with mudguards
  • Weight: 56 - 14.06 kg / 31 lbs This bike has a maximum total weight limit (combined weight of bicycle, rider and cargo) of 125 kg (275 lb).

What is the motor power/output?
250 Watt maximum continuous rated power, 358 Watt peak power, 40 Nm torque.
How do I change assist levels?
Hood-mounted controls let you change assist while keeping your hands on the bars.
What type of charger does it come with and how long does it take to charge the battery?
The battery will charge via a port in the downtube in about four hours with the included 2-amp charger.
How much does the battery weigh?
3.5 lb/1.59 kg
Is the battery removable? What if I need to replace it?
It is removable by a trained technician only. Please contact us for replacement batteries.


We reserve the right to make changes to the product information contained on this site at any time without notice, including with respect to equipment, specifications, models, colours, materials and pricing. Due to supply chain issues, compatible parts may be substituted at any time without notice.

Bike and frame weights are based on pre-production painted frames at time of publication. Weights may vary in final production.


 

How to Build Your Bike

Aftercare

After the first few weeks of use, the whole bike will settle down. As a result, the gears may need tweaking, some nuts and bolts may need tightening and you may well need to check the adjustment of the saddle and handlebars.

CABLE STRETCH

Gears

Cable stretch tends to occur shortly after a new bike has been ridden a few times. A rear derailleur that we have tuned to hit every gear, nicely and quietly, may now not be making each shift causing a sensation and sound of “being in between gears”. Generally you may have to shift up, or shift down a couple times to quiet it down and settle the derailleur into a “happy gear”. A front derailleur may no longer want to shift all the way onto the big ring or will require a much firmer push to get it there. It is advisable to get the cable tension adjusted as soon as this happens either by your local bike shop. This tune up is considered a necessary part of any bicycles maintenance schedule and as such should not be ignored.

Brakes

Your brakes will also be affected by cable stretch (provided of course that they are NOT hydraulic in which case this does not apply). The symptom here is that they usually start to feel quite loose. i.e. you have to pull the lever much further back or harder in order to get the same stopping power you once had. This is partly why new bikes come with a first free service. If your brakes start feeling a little spongy after a few weeks, you can adjust them at the barrel or the clamp or ask a mechanic at your local bike shop to do it for you.

DISC BRAKES

New disc brakes won’t deliver their full power until the rotor and pads have bedded in. SRAM has a really good guide for bedding in disc brakes: “Accelerate the bike to a moderate speed and then firmly applying the brakes until you are at walking speed. Repeat this process 20 times. Then accelerate the bike to a faster speed and apply the brakes until you are at walking speed. Repeat this process ten times. It’s important that during this process you never come to a complete stop or lock up the wheels at any point.” Doing this process should drastically improve the performance of your brakes and prepare them for many happy rides.

CRANKS

Check the cranks and crank bolts or nut for tightness; grab a crank arm in each hand and try to wiggle them to check for looseness. If there is play in the cranks, the nuts or bolts may need to be tightened. Cranks should be checked after every ride for the first week.

HEADSET

A loose headset can be diagnosed by turning the front wheel to point left or right, holding the front brake on, and then rocking the bike backwards and forwards. Hold your fingers between the stem and the frame. Any movement indicates that you need to tighten the headset.

SADDLE

Check your seat post is not loose and that you have not exceeded the limit marked on the seat post. Once you have checked these, use an allen key to tighten the seat post clamp. Check the seat is secure by giving it another check once you have finished.

STEM

Check that your front wheel and stem do not move independently, and that your handlebar clamp bolts are tight. Perform this check by standing in front of the bike, holding the front wheel between your knees, and twisting the handlebars. You can prevent any movement by tightening the stem bolts and the handlebar clamp with an allen key.

SUSPENSION FORKS

Keeping your mountain bike’s suspension maintained is one of the best ways to ensure you’re getting all the performance you can out of your bike. Plus, giving your fork and shock a few seconds of attention here and there can prevent costly repairs or even replacements.

Dirt is the number one enemy of suspension. After every ride make sure to wipe the seal area and stanchions of your fork and shock. Wipe in a horizontal motion, not vertical as you don’t want to force any debris towards the seals.

Every few rides double check that your suspension sag is correct, as well as your rebound and compression adjustments. If something has changed, or the adjustments aren’t working as before, some maintenance is likely due.

Working on your bike at home can seem daunting, and we'd always recommend you take your bike to a qualified mechanic if possible.