TREK DOMANE SL 5 GEN 4 ROAD BIKE 2024 - DARK AQUATIC
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Product Details

The Domane SL 5 is ready to comfortably take on rough roads and long miles in comfort. The lightweight 500 Series OCLV Carbon frame has rear IsoSpeed to smooth out bumps in the road and reduce fatigue, and an integrated cockpit for a set-up that looks as good as it feels. It features a reliable Shimano 105 drivetrain, and an easy-access internal storage compartment for stowing ride essentials. Plus, lofty 38 mm tyre clearance lets you take on any road from tarmac to light gravel.

You want a comfy and fast ride that's built for the long haul, and prefer the feel of vibration-damping IsoSpeed and lightweight carbon. Rides might take you over smooth tarmac, rough roads and well beyond. You want a bike with wide tyre clearance to get you through it all.

A light and refined 500 Series OCLV Carbon frame and fork with road-smoothing rear IsoSpeed, powerful flat-mount disc brakes, a full 2x12 Shimano 105 group set and tubeless-ready wheels with wider 700x32 tyres. An integrated cockpit, internal storage, top tube mounts and cable routing add to the bike's capability and sleek look.

Carbon, comfort, capability. The Domane SL 5 is the dream bike for long rides. Its light-and-fast carbon frame, stable endurance geometry and road-smoothing rear IsoSpeed keep you comfortable through long miles. You also get the added advantage of a higher-end Shimano 105 drivetrain and powerful disc brakes that let you run wide tyres.

Key Features

  • 500 Series OCLV Carbon frame: Saves weight and gives you more free speed thanks to updated Kammtail tube shapes
  • Proven Componentry: Powerful Shimano hydraulic disc mount brakes and 24-speed 105 drivetrain.
  • 38 mm Tyre ClearanceAbsorbs fatiguing bumps in the road for a smoother, more comfortable ride.

Full Specification

  • Frame: 500 Series OCLV Carbon, IsoSpeed, internal storage, tapered head tube, internal cable routing, 3S chain keeper, fender mounts, flat mount disc, 142x12mm thru axle
  • Fork: Domane SL carbon, tapered carbon steerer, internal brake routing, mudguard mounts, flat-mount disc, 12x100 mm thru axle
  • Gear Shifters: Shimano 105 R7120, 12-speed
  • Chainset: Shimano 105 R7100, 50/34, 165 - 175 mm length
  • Rear Cassette: Shimano 105 7101, 11-34, 12-speed
  • Chain: Shimano SLX M7100, 12-speed
  • Front Derailleur: Shimano 105 R7100, braze-on, down swing
  • Rear Derailleur: Shimano 105 R7100, 36T max cog
  • Bottom Bracket: Praxis, T47 threaded, internal bearing
  • Pedals: Not supplied
  • Front Wheel: Bontrager Paradigm SL, Tubeless Ready, 21 mm rim width, 100x12 mm thru axle
  • Rear Wheel: Bontrager Paradigm SL, Tubeless Ready, 21 mm rim width, 142x12 mm thru axle
  • Tyres: Bontrager R3 Hard-Case Lite, Tubeless Ready, aramid bead, 120 tpi, 700x32 mm
  • Brakes: Shimano 105 hydraulic disc
  • Handlebars: Bontrager Elite IsoZone VR-SF, alloy, 31.8 mm, internal Di2 routing, 75 mm reach, 128 mm drop
  • Bar Tape: Bontrager Supertack Perf tape
  • Headset: Integrated
  • Stem: Trek RCS Pro, -7-degree, 60 - 110 mm length
  • Saddle: Bontrager Verse Short Comp, steel rails
  • Seatpost: Domane carbon seat post, KVF shaping, 20 mm offset, 280-320mm length
  • Accessories: Bontrager BITS Internal Frame Storage Bag
  • Weight: 56 - 8.93 kg / 19.69 lbs (with TLR sealant, no tubes)

    We reserve the right to make changes to the product information contained on this site at any time without notice, including with respect to equipment, specifications, models, colours, materials and pricing. Due to supply chain issues, compatible parts may be substituted at any time without notice.

    Bike and frame weights are based on pre-production painted frames at time of publication. Weights may vary in final production.



    How to Build Your Bike

    Aftercare

    After the first few weeks of use, the whole bike will settle down. As a result, the gears may need tweaking, some nuts and bolts may need tightening and you may well need to check the adjustment of the saddle and handlebars.

    CABLE STRETCH

    Gears

    Cable stretch tends to occur shortly after a new bike has been ridden a few times. A rear derailleur that we have tuned to hit every gear, nicely and quietly, may now not be making each shift causing a sensation and sound of “being in between gears”. Generally you may have to shift up, or shift down a couple times to quiet it down and settle the derailleur into a “happy gear”. A front derailleur may no longer want to shift all the way onto the big ring or will require a much firmer push to get it there. It is advisable to get the cable tension adjusted as soon as this happens either by your local bike shop. This tune up is considered a necessary part of any bicycles maintenance schedule and as such should not be ignored.

    Brakes

    Your brakes will also be affected by cable stretch (provided of course that they are NOT hydraulic in which case this does not apply). The symptom here is that they usually start to feel quite loose. i.e. you have to pull the lever much further back or harder in order to get the same stopping power you once had. This is partly why new bikes come with a first free service. If your brakes start feeling a little spongy after a few weeks, you can adjust them at the barrel or the clamp or ask a mechanic at your local bike shop to do it for you.

    DISC BRAKES

    New disc brakes won’t deliver their full power until the rotor and pads have bedded in. SRAM has a really good guide for bedding in disc brakes: “Accelerate the bike to a moderate speed and then firmly applying the brakes until you are at walking speed. Repeat this process 20 times. Then accelerate the bike to a faster speed and apply the brakes until you are at walking speed. Repeat this process ten times. It’s important that during this process you never come to a complete stop or lock up the wheels at any point.” Doing this process should drastically improve the performance of your brakes and prepare them for many happy rides.

    CRANKS

    Check the cranks and crank bolts or nut for tightness; grab a crank arm in each hand and try to wiggle them to check for looseness. If there is play in the cranks, the nuts or bolts may need to be tightened. Cranks should be checked after every ride for the first week.

    HEADSET

    A loose headset can be diagnosed by turning the front wheel to point left or right, holding the front brake on, and then rocking the bike backwards and forwards. Hold your fingers between the stem and the frame. Any movement indicates that you need to tighten the headset.

    SADDLE

    Check your seat post is not loose and that you have not exceeded the limit marked on the seat post. Once you have checked these, use an allen key to tighten the seat post clamp. Check the seat is secure by giving it another check once you have finished.

    STEM

    Check that your front wheel and stem do not move independently, and that your handlebar clamp bolts are tight. Perform this check by standing in front of the bike, holding the front wheel between your knees, and twisting the handlebars. You can prevent any movement by tightening the stem bolts and the handlebar clamp with an allen key.

    SUSPENSION FORKS

    Keeping your mountain bike’s suspension maintained is one of the best ways to ensure you’re getting all the performance you can out of your bike. Plus, giving your fork and shock a few seconds of attention here and there can prevent costly repairs or even replacements.

    Dirt is the number one enemy of suspension. After every ride make sure to wipe the seal area and stanchions of your fork and shock. Wipe in a horizontal motion, not vertical as you don’t want to force any debris towards the seals.

    Every few rides double check that your suspension sag is correct, as well as your rebound and compression adjustments. If something has changed, or the adjustments aren’t working as before, some maintenance is likely due.

    Working on your bike at home can seem daunting, and we'd always recommend you take your bike to a qualified mechanic if possible.

     

    TREK DOMANE SL 5 GEN 4 ROAD BIKE 2024 - DARK AQUATIC

    Regular price £2,994.00
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    Regular price Was £3,000.00 Sale price £2,994.00

    SKU: 5297209

    Product ID: 159576

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    Product Description

    The Domane SL 5 is ready to comfortably take on rough roads and long miles in comfort. The lightweight 500 Series OCLV Carbon frame has rear IsoSpeed to smooth out bumps in the road and reduce fatigue, and an integrated cockpit for a set-up that looks as good as it feels. It features a reliable Shimano 105 drivetrain, and an easy-access internal storage compartment for stowing ride essentials. Plus, lofty 38 mm tyre clearance lets you take on any road from tarmac to light gravel.

    You want a comfy and fast ride that's built for the long haul, and prefer the feel of vibration-damping IsoSpeed and lightweight carbon. Rides might take you over smooth tarmac, rough roads and well beyond. You want a bike with wide tyre clearance to get you through it all.

    A light and refined 500 Series OCLV Carbon frame and fork with road-smoothing rear IsoSpeed, powerful flat-mount disc brakes, a full 2x12 Shimano 105 group set and tubeless-ready wheels with wider 700x32 tyres. An integrated cockpit, internal storage, top tube mounts and cable routing add to the bike's capability and sleek look.

    Carbon, comfort, capability. The Domane SL 5 is the dream bike for long rides. Its light-and-fast carbon frame, stable endurance geometry and road-smoothing rear IsoSpeed keep you comfortable through long miles. You also get the added advantage of a higher-end Shimano 105 drivetrain and powerful disc brakes that let you run wide tyres.

    Key Features

    • 500 Series OCLV Carbon frame: Saves weight and gives you more free speed thanks to updated Kammtail tube shapes
    • Proven Componentry: Powerful Shimano hydraulic disc mount brakes and 24-speed 105 drivetrain.
    • 38 mm Tyre ClearanceAbsorbs fatiguing bumps in the road for a smoother, more comfortable ride.

    Full Specification

    • Frame: 500 Series OCLV Carbon, IsoSpeed, internal storage, tapered head tube, internal cable routing, 3S chain keeper, fender mounts, flat mount disc, 142x12mm thru axle
    • Fork: Domane SL carbon, tapered carbon steerer, internal brake routing, mudguard mounts, flat-mount disc, 12x100 mm thru axle
    • Gear Shifters: Shimano 105 R7120, 12-speed
    • Chainset: Shimano 105 R7100, 50/34, 165 - 175 mm length
    • Rear Cassette: Shimano 105 7101, 11-34, 12-speed
    • Chain: Shimano SLX M7100, 12-speed
    • Front Derailleur: Shimano 105 R7100, braze-on, down swing
    • Rear Derailleur: Shimano 105 R7100, 36T max cog
    • Bottom Bracket: Praxis, T47 threaded, internal bearing
    • Pedals: Not supplied
    • Front Wheel: Bontrager Paradigm SL, Tubeless Ready, 21 mm rim width, 100x12 mm thru axle
    • Rear Wheel: Bontrager Paradigm SL, Tubeless Ready, 21 mm rim width, 142x12 mm thru axle
    • Tyres: Bontrager R3 Hard-Case Lite, Tubeless Ready, aramid bead, 120 tpi, 700x32 mm
    • Brakes: Shimano 105 hydraulic disc
    • Handlebars: Bontrager Elite IsoZone VR-SF, alloy, 31.8 mm, internal Di2 routing, 75 mm reach, 128 mm drop
    • Bar Tape: Bontrager Supertack Perf tape
    • Headset: Integrated
    • Stem: Trek RCS Pro, -7-degree, 60 - 110 mm length
    • Saddle: Bontrager Verse Short Comp, steel rails
    • Seatpost: Domane carbon seat post, KVF shaping, 20 mm offset, 280-320mm length
    • Accessories: Bontrager BITS Internal Frame Storage Bag
    • Weight: 56 - 8.93 kg / 19.69 lbs (with TLR sealant, no tubes)

      We reserve the right to make changes to the product information contained on this site at any time without notice, including with respect to equipment, specifications, models, colours, materials and pricing. Due to supply chain issues, compatible parts may be substituted at any time without notice.

      Bike and frame weights are based on pre-production painted frames at time of publication. Weights may vary in final production.



      How to Build Your Bike

      Aftercare

      After the first few weeks of use, the whole bike will settle down. As a result, the gears may need tweaking, some nuts and bolts may need tightening and you may well need to check the adjustment of the saddle and handlebars.

      CABLE STRETCH

      Gears

      Cable stretch tends to occur shortly after a new bike has been ridden a few times. A rear derailleur that we have tuned to hit every gear, nicely and quietly, may now not be making each shift causing a sensation and sound of “being in between gears”. Generally you may have to shift up, or shift down a couple times to quiet it down and settle the derailleur into a “happy gear”. A front derailleur may no longer want to shift all the way onto the big ring or will require a much firmer push to get it there. It is advisable to get the cable tension adjusted as soon as this happens either by your local bike shop. This tune up is considered a necessary part of any bicycles maintenance schedule and as such should not be ignored.

      Brakes

      Your brakes will also be affected by cable stretch (provided of course that they are NOT hydraulic in which case this does not apply). The symptom here is that they usually start to feel quite loose. i.e. you have to pull the lever much further back or harder in order to get the same stopping power you once had. This is partly why new bikes come with a first free service. If your brakes start feeling a little spongy after a few weeks, you can adjust them at the barrel or the clamp or ask a mechanic at your local bike shop to do it for you.

      DISC BRAKES

      New disc brakes won’t deliver their full power until the rotor and pads have bedded in. SRAM has a really good guide for bedding in disc brakes: “Accelerate the bike to a moderate speed and then firmly applying the brakes until you are at walking speed. Repeat this process 20 times. Then accelerate the bike to a faster speed and apply the brakes until you are at walking speed. Repeat this process ten times. It’s important that during this process you never come to a complete stop or lock up the wheels at any point.” Doing this process should drastically improve the performance of your brakes and prepare them for many happy rides.

      CRANKS

      Check the cranks and crank bolts or nut for tightness; grab a crank arm in each hand and try to wiggle them to check for looseness. If there is play in the cranks, the nuts or bolts may need to be tightened. Cranks should be checked after every ride for the first week.

      HEADSET

      A loose headset can be diagnosed by turning the front wheel to point left or right, holding the front brake on, and then rocking the bike backwards and forwards. Hold your fingers between the stem and the frame. Any movement indicates that you need to tighten the headset.

      SADDLE

      Check your seat post is not loose and that you have not exceeded the limit marked on the seat post. Once you have checked these, use an allen key to tighten the seat post clamp. Check the seat is secure by giving it another check once you have finished.

      STEM

      Check that your front wheel and stem do not move independently, and that your handlebar clamp bolts are tight. Perform this check by standing in front of the bike, holding the front wheel between your knees, and twisting the handlebars. You can prevent any movement by tightening the stem bolts and the handlebar clamp with an allen key.

      SUSPENSION FORKS

      Keeping your mountain bike’s suspension maintained is one of the best ways to ensure you’re getting all the performance you can out of your bike. Plus, giving your fork and shock a few seconds of attention here and there can prevent costly repairs or even replacements.

      Dirt is the number one enemy of suspension. After every ride make sure to wipe the seal area and stanchions of your fork and shock. Wipe in a horizontal motion, not vertical as you don’t want to force any debris towards the seals.

      Every few rides double check that your suspension sag is correct, as well as your rebound and compression adjustments. If something has changed, or the adjustments aren’t working as before, some maintenance is likely due.

      Working on your bike at home can seem daunting, and we'd always recommend you take your bike to a qualified mechanic if possible.