TREK EMONDA SLR 6 AXS CARBON ROAD BIKE 2024 - DARK PRISMATIC/TREK BLACK

TREK EMONDA SLR 6 AXS CARBON ROAD BIKE 2024 - DARK PRISMATIC/TREK BLACK

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Product Details

AVAILABILITY & ORDER TERMS & CONDITIONS

Émonda SLR 6 AXS are none cancellable custom builds with up to 90 day lead time. Please ensure you are ordering the correct size and specification for your requirements as cancellations and returns cannot be accepted.

Occasionally bikes are in stock at Trek Warehouse, for supply in 7-10 days. If this is the case our stock message will be displayed in green. Please contact us if this is the case and we can verify stock for you.

If this message is in yellow, availability will be up to 90 days from factory.

If you require further assistance prior to ordering contact us at sales@allterraincycles.co.uk or Telephone : 01274 588 488.


The Émonda SLR 6 eTap is an ultra-light, aerodynamic carbon road bike that's designed and built to be the fastest climbing bike Trek have ever made. You get the incredible ride quality of their lightest platform, an ultra-smart and smooth SRAM Rival AXS wireless electronic drivetrain with power meter and you'll go faster than ever before on any elevation.

This bike crushes climbs and flies on flats. It’s aerodynamic for more free speed, but doesn’t sacrifice the amazing lightweight ride quality that Émonda is known for. It also comes with a wireless electronic drivetrain for lightning-fast shifts.

You’re a serious road rider and racer and you want the lightest road bike platform we make, plus the speed, precision and clean looks of SRAM’s newest wireless electronic drivetrain. Your goal is to beat everyone up every single climb.

Key Features

  • Carbon Fibre Frame: Ultra lightweight 800 Series OCLV, weighing under 700g, to give you a competitive advantage.
  •  Sram Rival Drive Train: Wireless for less clutter & delivers a quieter ride and smaller jumps between gears for super smooth shifts.
  • Sram Rival Hydraulic Disc Brakes: Consistent braking performance for better control and confidence in race conditions.

Full Specification:

  • Frame: Ultralight 800 Series OCLV Carbon, Ride Tuned performance tube optimisation, tapered head tube, internal routing, DuoTrap S-compatible, flat-mount disc, 142x12 mm thru axle
  • Fork: Emonda SLR full carbon, tapered carbon steerer, internal brake routing, flat-mount disc, 12x100 mm thru axle
  • Gear Shifters: SRAM Rival eTap AXS, 12-speed
  • Chainset: SRAM Rival AXS w/ power meter, 48/35, DUB, 165-175mm
  • Rear Cassette: SRAM XG-1250, 10-36, 12 speed
  • Chain: SRAM Rival, 12-speed
  • Front Derailleur: SRAM Rival D1 AXS, braze-on
  • Rear Derailleur: SRAM Rival AXS
  • Bottom Bracket: SRAM DUB, T47 threaded, internal bearing
  • Pedals: Not Included
  • Rims: Bontrager Aeolus Pro 37, OCLV Carbon, Tubeless Ready, 37mm rim depth
  • Front Hub: Bontrager Aeolus Pro 37, 100x12mm thru axle
  • Rear Hub: Bontrager Aeolus Pro 37, Shimano 11/12 freehub, 142x12mm thru axle
  • Tyres: Bontrager R3 Hard-Case Lite, aramid bead, 120 tpi, 700x25 c
  • Brakes: Shimano Ultegra hydraulic disc
  • Handlebars: Bontrager Aeolus RSL Integrated bar/stem, OCLV Carbon, Di2 routing, 100 mm reach, 124 mm drop
  • Bar Tape: Bontrager Supertack Perf tape
  • Headset: Integrated
  • Stem: Bontrager Aeolus RSL Integrated bar/stem, OCLV Carbon, Di2 routing
  • Saddle: Bontrager Aeolus Pro, carbon rails, 145 - 155 mm width
  • Seatpost: Bontrager carbon seat mast cap, 20 mm offset
  • Accessories: N/A
  • Weight: 56 - 7.48 kg/16.5 lb

We reserve the right to make changes to the product information contained on this site at any time without notice, including with respect to equipment, specifications, models, colours, materials and pricing. Due to supply chain issues, compatible parts may be substituted at any time without notice.

Bike and frame weights are based on pre-production painted frames at time of publication. Weights may vary in final production.

How to Build Your Bike

Aftercare

After the first few weeks of use, the whole bike will settle down. As a result, the gears may need tweaking, some nuts and bolts may need tightening and you may well need to check the adjustment of the saddle and handlebars.

CABLE STRETCH

Gears

Cable stretch tends to occur shortly after a new bike has been ridden a few times. A rear derailleur that we have tuned to hit every gear, nicely and quietly, may now not be making each shift causing a sensation and sound of “being in between gears”. Generally you may have to shift up, or shift down a couple times to quiet it down and settle the derailleur into a “happy gear”. A front derailleur may no longer want to shift all the way onto the big ring or will require a much firmer push to get it there. It is advisable to get the cable tension adjusted as soon as this happens either by your local bike shop. This tune up is considered a necessary part of any bicycles maintenance schedule and as such should not be ignored.

Brakes

Your brakes will also be affected by cable stretch (provided of course that they are NOT hydraulic in which case this does not apply). The symptom here is that they usually start to feel quite loose. i.e. you have to pull the lever much further back or harder in order to get the same stopping power you once had. This is partly why new bikes come with a first free service. If your brakes start feeling a little spongy after a few weeks, you can adjust them at the barrel or the clamp or ask a mechanic at your local bike shop to do it for you.

DISC BRAKES

New disc brakes won’t deliver their full power until the rotor and pads have bedded in. SRAM has a really good guide for bedding in disc brakes: “Accelerate the bike to a moderate speed and then firmly applying the brakes until you are at walking speed. Repeat this process 20 times. Then accelerate the bike to a faster speed and apply the brakes until you are at walking speed. Repeat this process ten times. It’s important that during this process you never come to a complete stop or lock up the wheels at any point.” Doing this process should drastically improve the performance of your brakes and prepare them for many happy rides.

CRANKS

Check the cranks and crank bolts or nut for tightness; grab a crank arm in each hand and try to wiggle them to check for looseness. If there is play in the cranks, the nuts or bolts may need to be tightened. Cranks should be checked after every ride for the first week.

HEADSET

A loose headset can be diagnosed by turning the front wheel to point left or right, holding the front brake on, and then rocking the bike backwards and forwards. Hold your fingers between the stem and the frame. Any movement indicates that you need to tighten the headset.

SADDLE

Check your seat post is not loose and that you have not exceeded the limit marked on the seat post. Once you have checked these, use an allen key to tighten the seat post clamp. Check the seat is secure by giving it another check once you have finished.

STEM

Check that your front wheel and stem do not move independently, and that your handlebar clamp bolts are tight. Perform this check by standing in front of the bike, holding the front wheel between your knees, and twisting the handlebars. You can prevent any movement by tightening the stem bolts and the handlebar clamp with an allen key.

SUSPENSION FORKS

Keeping your mountain bike’s suspension maintained is one of the best ways to ensure you’re getting all the performance you can out of your bike. Plus, giving your fork and shock a few seconds of attention here and there can prevent costly repairs or even replacements.

Dirt is the number one enemy of suspension. After every ride make sure to wipe the seal area and stanchions of your fork and shock. Wipe in a horizontal motion, not vertical as you don’t want to force any debris towards the seals.

Every few rides double check that your suspension sag is correct, as well as your rebound and compression adjustments. If something has changed, or the adjustments aren’t working as before, some maintenance is likely due.

Working on your bike at home can seem daunting, and we'd always recommend you take your bike to a qualified mechanic if possible.

 

TREK EMONDA SLR 6 AXS CARBON ROAD BIKE 2024 - DARK PRISMATIC/TREK BLACK

TREK EMONDA SLR 6 AXS CARBON ROAD BIKE 2024 - DARK PRISMATIC/TREK BLACK

Regular price £7,071.80
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Regular price Was £7,450.00 Sale price £7,071.80

SKU: 5266452

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Product Description

AVAILABILITY & ORDER TERMS & CONDITIONS

Émonda SLR 6 AXS are none cancellable custom builds with up to 90 day lead time. Please ensure you are ordering the correct size and specification for your requirements as cancellations and returns cannot be accepted.

Occasionally bikes are in stock at Trek Warehouse, for supply in 7-10 days. If this is the case our stock message will be displayed in green. Please contact us if this is the case and we can verify stock for you.

If this message is in yellow, availability will be up to 90 days from factory.

If you require further assistance prior to ordering contact us at sales@allterraincycles.co.uk or Telephone : 01274 588 488.


The Émonda SLR 6 eTap is an ultra-light, aerodynamic carbon road bike that's designed and built to be the fastest climbing bike Trek have ever made. You get the incredible ride quality of their lightest platform, an ultra-smart and smooth SRAM Rival AXS wireless electronic drivetrain with power meter and you'll go faster than ever before on any elevation.

This bike crushes climbs and flies on flats. It’s aerodynamic for more free speed, but doesn’t sacrifice the amazing lightweight ride quality that Émonda is known for. It also comes with a wireless electronic drivetrain for lightning-fast shifts.

You’re a serious road rider and racer and you want the lightest road bike platform we make, plus the speed, precision and clean looks of SRAM’s newest wireless electronic drivetrain. Your goal is to beat everyone up every single climb.

Key Features

  • Carbon Fibre Frame: Ultra lightweight 800 Series OCLV, weighing under 700g, to give you a competitive advantage.
  •  Sram Rival Drive Train: Wireless for less clutter & delivers a quieter ride and smaller jumps between gears for super smooth shifts.
  • Sram Rival Hydraulic Disc Brakes: Consistent braking performance for better control and confidence in race conditions.

Full Specification:

  • Frame: Ultralight 800 Series OCLV Carbon, Ride Tuned performance tube optimisation, tapered head tube, internal routing, DuoTrap S-compatible, flat-mount disc, 142x12 mm thru axle
  • Fork: Emonda SLR full carbon, tapered carbon steerer, internal brake routing, flat-mount disc, 12x100 mm thru axle
  • Gear Shifters: SRAM Rival eTap AXS, 12-speed
  • Chainset: SRAM Rival AXS w/ power meter, 48/35, DUB, 165-175mm
  • Rear Cassette: SRAM XG-1250, 10-36, 12 speed
  • Chain: SRAM Rival, 12-speed
  • Front Derailleur: SRAM Rival D1 AXS, braze-on
  • Rear Derailleur: SRAM Rival AXS
  • Bottom Bracket: SRAM DUB, T47 threaded, internal bearing
  • Pedals: Not Included
  • Rims: Bontrager Aeolus Pro 37, OCLV Carbon, Tubeless Ready, 37mm rim depth
  • Front Hub: Bontrager Aeolus Pro 37, 100x12mm thru axle
  • Rear Hub: Bontrager Aeolus Pro 37, Shimano 11/12 freehub, 142x12mm thru axle
  • Tyres: Bontrager R3 Hard-Case Lite, aramid bead, 120 tpi, 700x25 c
  • Brakes: Shimano Ultegra hydraulic disc
  • Handlebars: Bontrager Aeolus RSL Integrated bar/stem, OCLV Carbon, Di2 routing, 100 mm reach, 124 mm drop
  • Bar Tape: Bontrager Supertack Perf tape
  • Headset: Integrated
  • Stem: Bontrager Aeolus RSL Integrated bar/stem, OCLV Carbon, Di2 routing
  • Saddle: Bontrager Aeolus Pro, carbon rails, 145 - 155 mm width
  • Seatpost: Bontrager carbon seat mast cap, 20 mm offset
  • Accessories: N/A
  • Weight: 56 - 7.48 kg/16.5 lb

We reserve the right to make changes to the product information contained on this site at any time without notice, including with respect to equipment, specifications, models, colours, materials and pricing. Due to supply chain issues, compatible parts may be substituted at any time without notice.

Bike and frame weights are based on pre-production painted frames at time of publication. Weights may vary in final production.

How to Build Your Bike

Aftercare

After the first few weeks of use, the whole bike will settle down. As a result, the gears may need tweaking, some nuts and bolts may need tightening and you may well need to check the adjustment of the saddle and handlebars.

CABLE STRETCH

Gears

Cable stretch tends to occur shortly after a new bike has been ridden a few times. A rear derailleur that we have tuned to hit every gear, nicely and quietly, may now not be making each shift causing a sensation and sound of “being in between gears”. Generally you may have to shift up, or shift down a couple times to quiet it down and settle the derailleur into a “happy gear”. A front derailleur may no longer want to shift all the way onto the big ring or will require a much firmer push to get it there. It is advisable to get the cable tension adjusted as soon as this happens either by your local bike shop. This tune up is considered a necessary part of any bicycles maintenance schedule and as such should not be ignored.

Brakes

Your brakes will also be affected by cable stretch (provided of course that they are NOT hydraulic in which case this does not apply). The symptom here is that they usually start to feel quite loose. i.e. you have to pull the lever much further back or harder in order to get the same stopping power you once had. This is partly why new bikes come with a first free service. If your brakes start feeling a little spongy after a few weeks, you can adjust them at the barrel or the clamp or ask a mechanic at your local bike shop to do it for you.

DISC BRAKES

New disc brakes won’t deliver their full power until the rotor and pads have bedded in. SRAM has a really good guide for bedding in disc brakes: “Accelerate the bike to a moderate speed and then firmly applying the brakes until you are at walking speed. Repeat this process 20 times. Then accelerate the bike to a faster speed and apply the brakes until you are at walking speed. Repeat this process ten times. It’s important that during this process you never come to a complete stop or lock up the wheels at any point.” Doing this process should drastically improve the performance of your brakes and prepare them for many happy rides.

CRANKS

Check the cranks and crank bolts or nut for tightness; grab a crank arm in each hand and try to wiggle them to check for looseness. If there is play in the cranks, the nuts or bolts may need to be tightened. Cranks should be checked after every ride for the first week.

HEADSET

A loose headset can be diagnosed by turning the front wheel to point left or right, holding the front brake on, and then rocking the bike backwards and forwards. Hold your fingers between the stem and the frame. Any movement indicates that you need to tighten the headset.

SADDLE

Check your seat post is not loose and that you have not exceeded the limit marked on the seat post. Once you have checked these, use an allen key to tighten the seat post clamp. Check the seat is secure by giving it another check once you have finished.

STEM

Check that your front wheel and stem do not move independently, and that your handlebar clamp bolts are tight. Perform this check by standing in front of the bike, holding the front wheel between your knees, and twisting the handlebars. You can prevent any movement by tightening the stem bolts and the handlebar clamp with an allen key.

SUSPENSION FORKS

Keeping your mountain bike’s suspension maintained is one of the best ways to ensure you’re getting all the performance you can out of your bike. Plus, giving your fork and shock a few seconds of attention here and there can prevent costly repairs or even replacements.

Dirt is the number one enemy of suspension. After every ride make sure to wipe the seal area and stanchions of your fork and shock. Wipe in a horizontal motion, not vertical as you don’t want to force any debris towards the seals.

Every few rides double check that your suspension sag is correct, as well as your rebound and compression adjustments. If something has changed, or the adjustments aren’t working as before, some maintenance is likely due.

Working on your bike at home can seem daunting, and we'd always recommend you take your bike to a qualified mechanic if possible.