TREK EMONDA SLR 7 CARBON ROAD BIKE 2024 - DEEP SMOKE
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Product Details

AVAILABILITY & ORDER TERMS & CONDITIONS

Émonda SLR 7 are none cancellable custom builds with up to 90 day lead time. Please ensure you are ordering the correct size and specification for your requirements as cancellations and returns cannot be accepted.

Occasionally bikes are in stock at Trek Warehouse, for supply in 7-10 days. If this is the case our stock message will be displayed in green. Please contact us if this is the case and we can verify stock for you.

If this message is in yellow, availability will be up to 90 days from factory.

If you require further assistance prior to ordering contact us at sales@allterraincycles.co.uk or Telephone : 01274 588 488.


Treks fastest climbing bike is aero, weighs in at less than 700g, and rides like a dream.

Émonda SLR 7 Disc is an ultra-light, aerodynamic carbon road bike that's designed and built to be the fastest climbing bike we've ever made. You get the legendary ride quality of our lightest platform, plus more speed, thanks to aero tubes wrought from our lightest OCLV lay-up ever. You also get the blazing fast precision shifting of an all-new wireless electronic Shimano Ultegra Di2 drivetrain.

All-new wireless Shimano Ultegra Di2 delivers faster, smoother and more responsive shifts than ever - 12-speed drivetrains have wider range cassettes and smaller jumps between gears, allowing riders to easily find the right cadence, & elite wireless performance on both new drivetrains ditch shifter gear wires, allowing for faster shifting and a cleaner front end.
Better brakes - Shimano adds Servo Wave to both Dura-Ace Di2 and Ultegra Di2, allowing for better pad-to-rotor clearance and delivering a simplified bleed process that’s sure to please your shop’s mechanics.

You love to fly up climbs, ride off the front and win every sprint. You want the lightest, fastest road bike we make, plus the performance advantage of a wireless electronic Di2 drivetrain's quick, precise shifting.

An ultra-light and aerodynamic 800 Series OCLV Carbon frame that weighs under 700 grams, an all-new wireless 2x12 Shimano Ultegra Di2 electronic drivetrain, lightweight Bontrager Aeolus Pro 37 OCLV Carbon tubeless-ready wheels, an Aeolus RSL OCLV Carbon integrated aero bar/stem and powerful hydraulic disc brakes.

This bike flies up any climb. It’s aerodynamic for more free speed, but doesn’t sacrifice the amazing lightweight ride quality that Émonda is known for. It also has a Di2 wireless electronic drivetrain so you'll never miss a shift again.

Key Features

  • Carbon Fibre Frame: Ultra lightweight, weighing under 700g, to give you a competitive advantage
  • Bontrager Aeolus Pro 37Wheel: The Aeolus 37 wheels are designed for climbing, and were developed alongside Émonda
  • New Shimano Ultegra Di2: featuring a 12-speed drivetrain that has wider range cassettes and smaller jumps between gears, allowing riders to easily find the right cadence.

Full Specification

  • Frame: Ultralight 800 Series OCLV Carbon, Ride Tuned performance tube optimisation, tapered head tube, internal routing, DuoTrap S-compatible, flat-mount disc, 142x12 mm thru axle
  • Fork: Emonda SLR full carbon, tapered carbon steerer, internal brake routing, flat-mount disc, 12x100 mm thru axle
  • Gear Shifters: Shimano Ultegra Di2 R8170 12 Speed
  • Chainset: Shimano Ultegra R8100, 52/36, 165-175 mm
  • Rear Cassette: Shimano Ultegra R8100, 11-30, 12-speed
  • Chain: Shimano XT M8100, 12-speed
  • Front Derailleur: Shimano Ultegra Di2 R8150 12 Speed
  • Rear Derailleur: Shimano Ultegra Di2 R8150 12 Speed
  • Bottom Bracket: Praxis, T47 threaded, internal bearing
  • Pedals: Not supplied
  • Rims: Bontrager Aeolus Pro 37, OCLV Carbon, Tubeless Ready, 37 mm rim depth
  • Front Hub: Bontrager Aeolus Pro 37, 100x12 mm thru axle
  • Rear Hub: Bontrager Aeolus Pro 37, 142x12 mm thru axle
  • Tyres: Bontrager R3 Hard-Case Lite, aramid bead, 120 tpi, 700x25 c
  • Brakes: Shimano Dura-Ace hydraulic disc brake
  • Handlebars: Bontrager Aeolus RSL Integrated bar/stem, OCLV Carbon, Di2 routing,
  • Bar Tape: Bontrager Supertack Perf tape
  • Headset: Integrated
  • Stem: Bontrager Aeolus RSL Integrated bar/stem, OCLV Carbon, Di2 routing,
  • Saddle: Bontrager Aeolus P2/Elite, 145 mm width
  • Seatpost: Bontrager carbon seat mast cap, 20 mm offset
  • Accessories: N/A
  • Weight: 56 - 7.10 kg / 15.66 lbs

    We reserve the right to make changes to the product information contained on this site at any time without notice, including with respect to equipment, specifications, models, colours, materials and pricing. Due to supply chain issues, compatible parts may be substituted at any time without notice.

    Bike and frame weights are based on pre-production painted frames at time of publication. Weights may vary in final production.

    How to Build Your Bike

    Aftercare

    After the first few weeks of use, the whole bike will settle down. As a result, the gears may need tweaking, some nuts and bolts may need tightening and you may well need to check the adjustment of the saddle and handlebars.

    CABLE STRETCH

    Gears

    Cable stretch tends to occur shortly after a new bike has been ridden a few times. A rear derailleur that we have tuned to hit every gear, nicely and quietly, may now not be making each shift causing a sensation and sound of “being in between gears”. Generally you may have to shift up, or shift down a couple times to quiet it down and settle the derailleur into a “happy gear”. A front derailleur may no longer want to shift all the way onto the big ring or will require a much firmer push to get it there. It is advisable to get the cable tension adjusted as soon as this happens either by your local bike shop. This tune up is considered a necessary part of any bicycles maintenance schedule and as such should not be ignored.

    Brakes

    Your brakes will also be affected by cable stretch (provided of course that they are NOT hydraulic in which case this does not apply). The symptom here is that they usually start to feel quite loose. i.e. you have to pull the lever much further back or harder in order to get the same stopping power you once had. This is partly why new bikes come with a first free service. If your brakes start feeling a little spongy after a few weeks, you can adjust them at the barrel or the clamp or ask a mechanic at your local bike shop to do it for you.

    DISC BRAKES

    New disc brakes won’t deliver their full power until the rotor and pads have bedded in. SRAM has a really good guide for bedding in disc brakes: “Accelerate the bike to a moderate speed and then firmly applying the brakes until you are at walking speed. Repeat this process 20 times. Then accelerate the bike to a faster speed and apply the brakes until you are at walking speed. Repeat this process ten times. It’s important that during this process you never come to a complete stop or lock up the wheels at any point.” Doing this process should drastically improve the performance of your brakes and prepare them for many happy rides.

    CRANKS

    Check the cranks and crank bolts or nut for tightness; grab a crank arm in each hand and try to wiggle them to check for looseness. If there is play in the cranks, the nuts or bolts may need to be tightened. Cranks should be checked after every ride for the first week.

    HEADSET

    A loose headset can be diagnosed by turning the front wheel to point left or right, holding the front brake on, and then rocking the bike backwards and forwards. Hold your fingers between the stem and the frame. Any movement indicates that you need to tighten the headset.

    SADDLE

    Check your seat post is not loose and that you have not exceeded the limit marked on the seat post. Once you have checked these, use an allen key to tighten the seat post clamp. Check the seat is secure by giving it another check once you have finished.

    STEM

    Check that your front wheel and stem do not move independently, and that your handlebar clamp bolts are tight. Perform this check by standing in front of the bike, holding the front wheel between your knees, and twisting the handlebars. You can prevent any movement by tightening the stem bolts and the handlebar clamp with an allen key.

    SUSPENSION FORKS

    Keeping your mountain bike’s suspension maintained is one of the best ways to ensure you’re getting all the performance you can out of your bike. Plus, giving your fork and shock a few seconds of attention here and there can prevent costly repairs or even replacements.

    Dirt is the number one enemy of suspension. After every ride make sure to wipe the seal area and stanchions of your fork and shock. Wipe in a horizontal motion, not vertical as you don’t want to force any debris towards the seals.

    Every few rides double check that your suspension sag is correct, as well as your rebound and compression adjustments. If something has changed, or the adjustments aren’t working as before, some maintenance is likely due.

    Working on your bike at home can seem daunting, and we'd always recommend you take your bike to a qualified mechanic if possible.

     

    TREK EMONDA SLR 7 CARBON ROAD BIKE 2024 - DEEP SMOKE

    Regular price £7,879.30
    Save 5%
    Regular price Was £8,300.00 Sale price £7,879.30

    SKU: 5278263

    EPOS Code:


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    Product Description

    AVAILABILITY & ORDER TERMS & CONDITIONS

    Émonda SLR 7 are none cancellable custom builds with up to 90 day lead time. Please ensure you are ordering the correct size and specification for your requirements as cancellations and returns cannot be accepted.

    Occasionally bikes are in stock at Trek Warehouse, for supply in 7-10 days. If this is the case our stock message will be displayed in green. Please contact us if this is the case and we can verify stock for you.

    If this message is in yellow, availability will be up to 90 days from factory.

    If you require further assistance prior to ordering contact us at sales@allterraincycles.co.uk or Telephone : 01274 588 488.


    Treks fastest climbing bike is aero, weighs in at less than 700g, and rides like a dream.

    Émonda SLR 7 Disc is an ultra-light, aerodynamic carbon road bike that's designed and built to be the fastest climbing bike we've ever made. You get the legendary ride quality of our lightest platform, plus more speed, thanks to aero tubes wrought from our lightest OCLV lay-up ever. You also get the blazing fast precision shifting of an all-new wireless electronic Shimano Ultegra Di2 drivetrain.

    All-new wireless Shimano Ultegra Di2 delivers faster, smoother and more responsive shifts than ever - 12-speed drivetrains have wider range cassettes and smaller jumps between gears, allowing riders to easily find the right cadence, & elite wireless performance on both new drivetrains ditch shifter gear wires, allowing for faster shifting and a cleaner front end.
    Better brakes - Shimano adds Servo Wave to both Dura-Ace Di2 and Ultegra Di2, allowing for better pad-to-rotor clearance and delivering a simplified bleed process that’s sure to please your shop’s mechanics.

    You love to fly up climbs, ride off the front and win every sprint. You want the lightest, fastest road bike we make, plus the performance advantage of a wireless electronic Di2 drivetrain's quick, precise shifting.

    An ultra-light and aerodynamic 800 Series OCLV Carbon frame that weighs under 700 grams, an all-new wireless 2x12 Shimano Ultegra Di2 electronic drivetrain, lightweight Bontrager Aeolus Pro 37 OCLV Carbon tubeless-ready wheels, an Aeolus RSL OCLV Carbon integrated aero bar/stem and powerful hydraulic disc brakes.

    This bike flies up any climb. It’s aerodynamic for more free speed, but doesn’t sacrifice the amazing lightweight ride quality that Émonda is known for. It also has a Di2 wireless electronic drivetrain so you'll never miss a shift again.

    Key Features

    • Carbon Fibre Frame: Ultra lightweight, weighing under 700g, to give you a competitive advantage
    • Bontrager Aeolus Pro 37Wheel: The Aeolus 37 wheels are designed for climbing, and were developed alongside Émonda
    • New Shimano Ultegra Di2: featuring a 12-speed drivetrain that has wider range cassettes and smaller jumps between gears, allowing riders to easily find the right cadence.

    Full Specification

    • Frame: Ultralight 800 Series OCLV Carbon, Ride Tuned performance tube optimisation, tapered head tube, internal routing, DuoTrap S-compatible, flat-mount disc, 142x12 mm thru axle
    • Fork: Emonda SLR full carbon, tapered carbon steerer, internal brake routing, flat-mount disc, 12x100 mm thru axle
    • Gear Shifters: Shimano Ultegra Di2 R8170 12 Speed
    • Chainset: Shimano Ultegra R8100, 52/36, 165-175 mm
    • Rear Cassette: Shimano Ultegra R8100, 11-30, 12-speed
    • Chain: Shimano XT M8100, 12-speed
    • Front Derailleur: Shimano Ultegra Di2 R8150 12 Speed
    • Rear Derailleur: Shimano Ultegra Di2 R8150 12 Speed
    • Bottom Bracket: Praxis, T47 threaded, internal bearing
    • Pedals: Not supplied
    • Rims: Bontrager Aeolus Pro 37, OCLV Carbon, Tubeless Ready, 37 mm rim depth
    • Front Hub: Bontrager Aeolus Pro 37, 100x12 mm thru axle
    • Rear Hub: Bontrager Aeolus Pro 37, 142x12 mm thru axle
    • Tyres: Bontrager R3 Hard-Case Lite, aramid bead, 120 tpi, 700x25 c
    • Brakes: Shimano Dura-Ace hydraulic disc brake
    • Handlebars: Bontrager Aeolus RSL Integrated bar/stem, OCLV Carbon, Di2 routing,
    • Bar Tape: Bontrager Supertack Perf tape
    • Headset: Integrated
    • Stem: Bontrager Aeolus RSL Integrated bar/stem, OCLV Carbon, Di2 routing,
    • Saddle: Bontrager Aeolus P2/Elite, 145 mm width
    • Seatpost: Bontrager carbon seat mast cap, 20 mm offset
    • Accessories: N/A
    • Weight: 56 - 7.10 kg / 15.66 lbs

      We reserve the right to make changes to the product information contained on this site at any time without notice, including with respect to equipment, specifications, models, colours, materials and pricing. Due to supply chain issues, compatible parts may be substituted at any time without notice.

      Bike and frame weights are based on pre-production painted frames at time of publication. Weights may vary in final production.

      How to Build Your Bike

      Aftercare

      After the first few weeks of use, the whole bike will settle down. As a result, the gears may need tweaking, some nuts and bolts may need tightening and you may well need to check the adjustment of the saddle and handlebars.

      CABLE STRETCH

      Gears

      Cable stretch tends to occur shortly after a new bike has been ridden a few times. A rear derailleur that we have tuned to hit every gear, nicely and quietly, may now not be making each shift causing a sensation and sound of “being in between gears”. Generally you may have to shift up, or shift down a couple times to quiet it down and settle the derailleur into a “happy gear”. A front derailleur may no longer want to shift all the way onto the big ring or will require a much firmer push to get it there. It is advisable to get the cable tension adjusted as soon as this happens either by your local bike shop. This tune up is considered a necessary part of any bicycles maintenance schedule and as such should not be ignored.

      Brakes

      Your brakes will also be affected by cable stretch (provided of course that they are NOT hydraulic in which case this does not apply). The symptom here is that they usually start to feel quite loose. i.e. you have to pull the lever much further back or harder in order to get the same stopping power you once had. This is partly why new bikes come with a first free service. If your brakes start feeling a little spongy after a few weeks, you can adjust them at the barrel or the clamp or ask a mechanic at your local bike shop to do it for you.

      DISC BRAKES

      New disc brakes won’t deliver their full power until the rotor and pads have bedded in. SRAM has a really good guide for bedding in disc brakes: “Accelerate the bike to a moderate speed and then firmly applying the brakes until you are at walking speed. Repeat this process 20 times. Then accelerate the bike to a faster speed and apply the brakes until you are at walking speed. Repeat this process ten times. It’s important that during this process you never come to a complete stop or lock up the wheels at any point.” Doing this process should drastically improve the performance of your brakes and prepare them for many happy rides.

      CRANKS

      Check the cranks and crank bolts or nut for tightness; grab a crank arm in each hand and try to wiggle them to check for looseness. If there is play in the cranks, the nuts or bolts may need to be tightened. Cranks should be checked after every ride for the first week.

      HEADSET

      A loose headset can be diagnosed by turning the front wheel to point left or right, holding the front brake on, and then rocking the bike backwards and forwards. Hold your fingers between the stem and the frame. Any movement indicates that you need to tighten the headset.

      SADDLE

      Check your seat post is not loose and that you have not exceeded the limit marked on the seat post. Once you have checked these, use an allen key to tighten the seat post clamp. Check the seat is secure by giving it another check once you have finished.

      STEM

      Check that your front wheel and stem do not move independently, and that your handlebar clamp bolts are tight. Perform this check by standing in front of the bike, holding the front wheel between your knees, and twisting the handlebars. You can prevent any movement by tightening the stem bolts and the handlebar clamp with an allen key.

      SUSPENSION FORKS

      Keeping your mountain bike’s suspension maintained is one of the best ways to ensure you’re getting all the performance you can out of your bike. Plus, giving your fork and shock a few seconds of attention here and there can prevent costly repairs or even replacements.

      Dirt is the number one enemy of suspension. After every ride make sure to wipe the seal area and stanchions of your fork and shock. Wipe in a horizontal motion, not vertical as you don’t want to force any debris towards the seals.

      Every few rides double check that your suspension sag is correct, as well as your rebound and compression adjustments. If something has changed, or the adjustments aren’t working as before, some maintenance is likely due.

      Working on your bike at home can seem daunting, and we'd always recommend you take your bike to a qualified mechanic if possible.