TREK FUEL EX 9.9 GX AXS GEN 6 MTB BIKE 2023 - DEEP SMOKE
TREK FUEL EX 9.9 GX AXS GEN 6 MTB BIKE 2023 - DEEP SMOKE
Product Details
Product Details
You want a full-suspension ride that can handle anything you throw its way. You want the vibration-damping benefits of a carbon frame and wheels and rock-gobbling premium suspension, and appreciate when you can keep your set-up clean and minimalist with wireless 12-speed shifting.
A light-and-stiff carbon frame with a full FOX Performance suspension package that turns chunky rock gardens into smooth sailing. Carbon wheels that keep weight down while offering stiff and reliable tracking. Plus, the wireless shifting of SRAM GX AXS, and tubeless hoops and tyres so you can spend less time fixing flats. Finally, you'll find adjustable geometry and in-frame storage for keeping your set-up dialled just for you.
The Fuel EX 9.8 is the evolution of years of trail riding, with longer front geometry for taking on steep descents, and a steeper seat tube for hammering back up to do it again. Its carbon frame keeps things light, and SRAM GX AXS shifting takes things up a notch for those who want the latest tech.
Key Features
- Fox Rhythm 36 fork: 150mm Suspension with 36mm stanchions for greater steering precision
- Carbon fibre 140mm travel Frame with downtube storage: Progressive geometry built to tackle steep and gnarly descents and punchy climbs alike
- 12-Speed SRAM GX AXS Gears: SRAM's workhorse GX group set, with wireless AXS shifting
Full Specification
- Frame: OCLV Mountain Carbon, internal storage, angle-adjust headset, Mino Link adjustable geometry, adjustable leverage rate, guided internal routing, magnesium rocker link, 34.9 mm seat tube, ISCG 05, 55 mm chain line, BSA 73, downtube guard, shuttle guard, ABP, UDH, Boost148, 140 mm travel
- Rear Shock: Fox Performance Float X, 2-position damper, 185mm x 55mm
- Fork: Fox Performance 36, Float EVOL air spring, GRIP damper, tapered steerer, 44 mm offset, Boost110, 15 mm Kabolt axle, 150 mm travel
- Gear Shifters: SRAM GX Eagle AXS, 12-speed
- Chainset: SRAM GX Eagle, DUB MTB Wide, 30T, 55mm chainline, 170 length
- Rear Cassette: SRAM Eagle XG-1275, 10-52, 12-speed
- Chain: SRAM GX Eagle, 12-speed
- Front Derailleur: N/A
- Rear Derailleur: SRAM GX Eagle AXS
- Bottom Bracket: SRAM DUB MTB Wide, 73 m, BSA threaded
- Pedals: Not Included
- Rims: Bontrager Line Elite 30, OCLV Mountain Carbon, Tubeless Ready, 6-bolt, Boost110, 15mm thru axle
- Front Hub: Bontrager alloy, sealed bearing, alloy axle, 6-bolt, Boost110, 15 mm thru axle
- Rear Hub: Bontrager alloy, sealed bearing, 6-bolt, 108T Rapid Drive, SRAM XD driver, Boost148, 12 mm thru axle
- Tyres: Bontrager SE5 Team Issue, Tubeless Ready, Core Strength sidewalls, aramid bead, 120 tpi, 29x2.50" or 27.5x2.50"(Size small and Xsmall)
- Brakes: SRAM Code R 4-piston hydraulic disc, SRAM CenterLine, 6-bolt, round edge, 180/200 mm
- Handlebars: Bontrager RSL Integrated handlebar/stem, OCLV Carbon, 27.5 mm handlebar rise, 820 mm width, 0-degree stem rise, 35-45mm stem length
- Handlebar Grips: Bontrager XR Trail Elite, lock-on
- Headset: Integrated cartridge bearing, 1-1/8" top, 1.5" bottom, angle adjust cup compatible
- Saddle: Bontrager Arvada, austenite rails
- Seatpost: Bontrager line dropper 100-200 mm travel, internal routing, 34.9 mm
- Accessories: Bontrager Bits frame storage bag
- Weight: M – 14.15 kg/31.21 lb (with TLR sealant, no tubes)
We reserve the right to make changes to the product information contained on this site at any time without notice, including with respect to equipment, specifications, models, colours, materials and pricing. Due to supply chain issues, compatible parts may be substituted at any time without notice.
Bike and frame weights are based on pre-production painted frames at time of publication. Weights may vary in final production.
How to Build Your Bike
How to Build Your Bike
Aftercare
Aftercare
After the first few weeks of use, the whole bike will settle down. As a result, the gears may need tweaking, some nuts and bolts may need tightening and you may well need to check the adjustment of the saddle and handlebars.
CABLE STRETCH
Gears
Cable stretch tends to occur shortly after a new bike has been ridden a few times. A rear derailleur that we have tuned to hit every gear, nicely and quietly, may now not be making each shift causing a sensation and sound of “being in between gears”. Generally you may have to shift up, or shift down a couple times to quiet it down and settle the derailleur into a “happy gear”. A front derailleur may no longer want to shift all the way onto the big ring or will require a much firmer push to get it there. It is advisable to get the cable tension adjusted as soon as this happens either by your local bike shop. This tune up is considered a necessary part of any bicycles maintenance schedule and as such should not be ignored.
Brakes
Your brakes will also be affected by cable stretch (provided of course that they are NOT hydraulic in which case this does not apply). The symptom here is that they usually start to feel quite loose. i.e. you have to pull the lever much further back or harder in order to get the same stopping power you once had. This is partly why new bikes come with a first free service. If your brakes start feeling a little spongy after a few weeks, you can adjust them at the barrel or the clamp or ask a mechanic at your local bike shop to do it for you.
DISC BRAKES
New disc brakes won’t deliver their full power until the rotor and pads have bedded in. SRAM has a really good guide for bedding in disc brakes: “Accelerate the bike to a moderate speed and then firmly applying the brakes until you are at walking speed. Repeat this process 20 times. Then accelerate the bike to a faster speed and apply the brakes until you are at walking speed. Repeat this process ten times. It’s important that during this process you never come to a complete stop or lock up the wheels at any point.” Doing this process should drastically improve the performance of your brakes and prepare them for many happy rides.
CRANKS
Check the cranks and crank bolts or nut for tightness; grab a crank arm in each hand and try to wiggle them to check for looseness. If there is play in the cranks, the nuts or bolts may need to be tightened. Cranks should be checked after every ride for the first week.
HEADSET
A loose headset can be diagnosed by turning the front wheel to point left or right, holding the front brake on, and then rocking the bike backwards and forwards. Hold your fingers between the stem and the frame. Any movement indicates that you need to tighten the headset.
SADDLE
Check your seat post is not loose and that you have not exceeded the limit marked on the seat post. Once you have checked these, use an allen key to tighten the seat post clamp. Check the seat is secure by giving it another check once you have finished.
STEM
Check that your front wheel and stem do not move independently, and that your handlebar clamp bolts are tight. Perform this check by standing in front of the bike, holding the front wheel between your knees, and twisting the handlebars. You can prevent any movement by tightening the stem bolts and the handlebar clamp with an allen key.
SUSPENSION FORKS
Keeping your mountain bike’s suspension maintained is one of the best ways to ensure you’re getting all the performance you can out of your bike. Plus, giving your fork and shock a few seconds of attention here and there can prevent costly repairs or even replacements.
Dirt is the number one enemy of suspension. After every ride make sure to wipe the seal area and stanchions of your fork and shock. Wipe in a horizontal motion, not vertical as you don’t want to force any debris towards the seals.
Every few rides double check that your suspension sag is correct, as well as your rebound and compression adjustments. If something has changed, or the adjustments aren’t working as before, some maintenance is likely due.
Working on your bike at home can seem daunting, and we'd always recommend you take your bike to a qualified mechanic if possible.
You Might Be Interested In
TREK FUEL EX 9.9 GX AXS GEN 6 MTB BIKE 2023 - DEEP SMOKE
TREK FUEL EX 9.9 GX AXS GEN 6 MTB BIKE 2023 - DEEP SMOKE
SKU: 5276907
EPOS Code:
Product Description
Product Description
You want a full-suspension ride that can handle anything you throw its way. You want the vibration-damping benefits of a carbon frame and wheels and rock-gobbling premium suspension, and appreciate when you can keep your set-up clean and minimalist with wireless 12-speed shifting.
A light-and-stiff carbon frame with a full FOX Performance suspension package that turns chunky rock gardens into smooth sailing. Carbon wheels that keep weight down while offering stiff and reliable tracking. Plus, the wireless shifting of SRAM GX AXS, and tubeless hoops and tyres so you can spend less time fixing flats. Finally, you'll find adjustable geometry and in-frame storage for keeping your set-up dialled just for you.
The Fuel EX 9.8 is the evolution of years of trail riding, with longer front geometry for taking on steep descents, and a steeper seat tube for hammering back up to do it again. Its carbon frame keeps things light, and SRAM GX AXS shifting takes things up a notch for those who want the latest tech.
Key Features
- Fox Rhythm 36 fork: 150mm Suspension with 36mm stanchions for greater steering precision
- Carbon fibre 140mm travel Frame with downtube storage: Progressive geometry built to tackle steep and gnarly descents and punchy climbs alike
- 12-Speed SRAM GX AXS Gears: SRAM's workhorse GX group set, with wireless AXS shifting
Full Specification
- Frame: OCLV Mountain Carbon, internal storage, angle-adjust headset, Mino Link adjustable geometry, adjustable leverage rate, guided internal routing, magnesium rocker link, 34.9 mm seat tube, ISCG 05, 55 mm chain line, BSA 73, downtube guard, shuttle guard, ABP, UDH, Boost148, 140 mm travel
- Rear Shock: Fox Performance Float X, 2-position damper, 185mm x 55mm
- Fork: Fox Performance 36, Float EVOL air spring, GRIP damper, tapered steerer, 44 mm offset, Boost110, 15 mm Kabolt axle, 150 mm travel
- Gear Shifters: SRAM GX Eagle AXS, 12-speed
- Chainset: SRAM GX Eagle, DUB MTB Wide, 30T, 55mm chainline, 170 length
- Rear Cassette: SRAM Eagle XG-1275, 10-52, 12-speed
- Chain: SRAM GX Eagle, 12-speed
- Front Derailleur: N/A
- Rear Derailleur: SRAM GX Eagle AXS
- Bottom Bracket: SRAM DUB MTB Wide, 73 m, BSA threaded
- Pedals: Not Included
- Rims: Bontrager Line Elite 30, OCLV Mountain Carbon, Tubeless Ready, 6-bolt, Boost110, 15mm thru axle
- Front Hub: Bontrager alloy, sealed bearing, alloy axle, 6-bolt, Boost110, 15 mm thru axle
- Rear Hub: Bontrager alloy, sealed bearing, 6-bolt, 108T Rapid Drive, SRAM XD driver, Boost148, 12 mm thru axle
- Tyres: Bontrager SE5 Team Issue, Tubeless Ready, Core Strength sidewalls, aramid bead, 120 tpi, 29x2.50" or 27.5x2.50"(Size small and Xsmall)
- Brakes: SRAM Code R 4-piston hydraulic disc, SRAM CenterLine, 6-bolt, round edge, 180/200 mm
- Handlebars: Bontrager RSL Integrated handlebar/stem, OCLV Carbon, 27.5 mm handlebar rise, 820 mm width, 0-degree stem rise, 35-45mm stem length
- Handlebar Grips: Bontrager XR Trail Elite, lock-on
- Headset: Integrated cartridge bearing, 1-1/8" top, 1.5" bottom, angle adjust cup compatible
- Saddle: Bontrager Arvada, austenite rails
- Seatpost: Bontrager line dropper 100-200 mm travel, internal routing, 34.9 mm
- Accessories: Bontrager Bits frame storage bag
- Weight: M – 14.15 kg/31.21 lb (with TLR sealant, no tubes)
We reserve the right to make changes to the product information contained on this site at any time without notice, including with respect to equipment, specifications, models, colours, materials and pricing. Due to supply chain issues, compatible parts may be substituted at any time without notice.
Bike and frame weights are based on pre-production painted frames at time of publication. Weights may vary in final production.
How to Build Your Bike
How to Build Your Bike
Aftercare
Aftercare
After the first few weeks of use, the whole bike will settle down. As a result, the gears may need tweaking, some nuts and bolts may need tightening and you may well need to check the adjustment of the saddle and handlebars.
CABLE STRETCH
Gears
Cable stretch tends to occur shortly after a new bike has been ridden a few times. A rear derailleur that we have tuned to hit every gear, nicely and quietly, may now not be making each shift causing a sensation and sound of “being in between gears”. Generally you may have to shift up, or shift down a couple times to quiet it down and settle the derailleur into a “happy gear”. A front derailleur may no longer want to shift all the way onto the big ring or will require a much firmer push to get it there. It is advisable to get the cable tension adjusted as soon as this happens either by your local bike shop. This tune up is considered a necessary part of any bicycles maintenance schedule and as such should not be ignored.
Brakes
Your brakes will also be affected by cable stretch (provided of course that they are NOT hydraulic in which case this does not apply). The symptom here is that they usually start to feel quite loose. i.e. you have to pull the lever much further back or harder in order to get the same stopping power you once had. This is partly why new bikes come with a first free service. If your brakes start feeling a little spongy after a few weeks, you can adjust them at the barrel or the clamp or ask a mechanic at your local bike shop to do it for you.
DISC BRAKES
New disc brakes won’t deliver their full power until the rotor and pads have bedded in. SRAM has a really good guide for bedding in disc brakes: “Accelerate the bike to a moderate speed and then firmly applying the brakes until you are at walking speed. Repeat this process 20 times. Then accelerate the bike to a faster speed and apply the brakes until you are at walking speed. Repeat this process ten times. It’s important that during this process you never come to a complete stop or lock up the wheels at any point.” Doing this process should drastically improve the performance of your brakes and prepare them for many happy rides.
CRANKS
Check the cranks and crank bolts or nut for tightness; grab a crank arm in each hand and try to wiggle them to check for looseness. If there is play in the cranks, the nuts or bolts may need to be tightened. Cranks should be checked after every ride for the first week.
HEADSET
A loose headset can be diagnosed by turning the front wheel to point left or right, holding the front brake on, and then rocking the bike backwards and forwards. Hold your fingers between the stem and the frame. Any movement indicates that you need to tighten the headset.
SADDLE
Check your seat post is not loose and that you have not exceeded the limit marked on the seat post. Once you have checked these, use an allen key to tighten the seat post clamp. Check the seat is secure by giving it another check once you have finished.
STEM
Check that your front wheel and stem do not move independently, and that your handlebar clamp bolts are tight. Perform this check by standing in front of the bike, holding the front wheel between your knees, and twisting the handlebars. You can prevent any movement by tightening the stem bolts and the handlebar clamp with an allen key.
SUSPENSION FORKS
Keeping your mountain bike’s suspension maintained is one of the best ways to ensure you’re getting all the performance you can out of your bike. Plus, giving your fork and shock a few seconds of attention here and there can prevent costly repairs or even replacements.
Dirt is the number one enemy of suspension. After every ride make sure to wipe the seal area and stanchions of your fork and shock. Wipe in a horizontal motion, not vertical as you don’t want to force any debris towards the seals.
Every few rides double check that your suspension sag is correct, as well as your rebound and compression adjustments. If something has changed, or the adjustments aren’t working as before, some maintenance is likely due.
Working on your bike at home can seem daunting, and we'd always recommend you take your bike to a qualified mechanic if possible.
You Might Be Interested In
