TREK MADONE SL 6 GEN 7 CARBON ROAD BIKE 2024 - CRIMSON

TREK MADONE SL 6 GEN 7 CARBON ROAD BIKE 2024 - CRIMSON

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Product Details

The Madone SL 6 offers legendary speed, cutting-edge tech and unbelievable ride quality in a 500 Series OCLV Carbon package that keeps things light and quick for fast road rides and races. IsoFlow technology smooths out bumps in the road while lowering weight and offering an aerodynamic advantage over your competition, and a wealth of super-speedy features like Trek's newest Kammtail aero shapes, an economical Shimano 105 Di2 electronic drivetrain, carbon wheels and invisible hose routing make for a race machine that feels just as fast as it looks.

You want speed, quality and performance in a more economical package, alongside a carbon frame that turns heads, a high-quality electronic drivetrain, grippy and long-lasting tyres, revolutionary IsoFlow aerodynamics and an all-out aero rig that makes every ride feel like your fastest ride ever.

A 500 Series OCLV Carbon frame with aero Kammtail tube shaping and revolutionary IsoFlow seat tube, invisible routing, a super fast Shimano 105 Di2 12-speed electronic drivetrain, Bontrager RSL Aero OCLV Carbon handlebars, and Bontrager Aeolus Elite 50 tubeless-ready carbon wheels.

The Madone SL 6 is a premium race-ready speed demon that's itching to take you on your fastest road rides and races. It belongs at the front of the group setting the pace and conquering KOMs.

Key Features:

  • 500 Series OCLV Carbon Frame: Trek's super light carbon laminate combines aero performance with low weight.
  • IsoFlow technology: Helps the seat mast and saddle flex for a more comfortable ride while also improving frame aerodynamics and shaving weight.
  • Shimano 105 Di2 GearsProvides affordable electronic shifting performance.

Full Specifications:

  • Frame: 500 Series OCLV Carbon, KVF (Kammtail Virtual Foil) tube shape, IsoFlow seat tube, invisible cable routing, 3S aero chain keeper, T47 BB, flat-mount disc, 142x12mm thru axle
  • Fork: Madone KVF full carbon, tapered carbon steerer, internal brake routing, flat mount disc, carbon dropouts, 12x100mm thru axle
  • Gear Shifters: Shimano 105 R7170, 12-speed
  • Chainset: Shimano 105 R7100, 50/34, 165 - 175 mm length
  • Rear Cassette: Shimano 105 7101, 11-34, 12-speed
  • Chain: Shimano SLX M7100, 12-speed
  • Front Derailleur: Shimano 105 R7150 Di2, braze-on, down swing
  • Rear Derailleur: Shimano 105 R7150 Di2, 34T max cog
  • Bottom Bracket: Praxis, T47 threaded, internal bearing
  • Pedals: Not supplied
  • Front Wheel: Bontrager Aeolus Elite 50, OCLV Carbon, Tubeless Ready, 100x12mm thru axle
  • RearWheel: Bontrager Aeolus Elite 50, OCLV Carbon, Tubeless Ready, 50 mm rim depth, Shimano 11-speed freehub, 142x12 mm thru axle
  • Tyres: Bontrager R3 Hard-Case Lite, aramid bead, 120 tpi, 700x25 mm
  • Brakes: Shimano RT70, CentreLock, 160 mm
  • Handlebars: Bontrager RSL Aero, OCLV Carbon, 31.8 mm, Di2 routing, 80 mm reach, 124 mm drop, 35- - 41 cm control width, 38 - 44 cm drops width
  • Stem: Trek RCS Pro, -7-degree, 70 - 110 mm length
  • Saddle: Bontrager Aeolus Comp, steel rails, 145 mm width
  • Seatpost: Madone aero carbon seatpost, integrated light mount, 0mm offset, long length
  • Weight: 56 – 8.40 kg/18.52 lb

    We reserve the right to make changes to the product information contained on this site at any time without notice, including with respect to equipment, specifications, models, colours, materials and pricing. Due to supply chain issues, compatible parts may be substituted at any time without notice.

    Bike and frame weights are based on pre-production painted frames at time of publication. Weights may vary in final production.

    How to Build Your Bike

    Aftercare

    After the first few weeks of use, the whole bike will settle down. As a result, the gears may need tweaking, some nuts and bolts may need tightening and you may well need to check the adjustment of the saddle and handlebars.

    CABLE STRETCH

    Gears

    Cable stretch tends to occur shortly after a new bike has been ridden a few times. A rear derailleur that we have tuned to hit every gear, nicely and quietly, may now not be making each shift causing a sensation and sound of “being in between gears”. Generally you may have to shift up, or shift down a couple times to quiet it down and settle the derailleur into a “happy gear”. A front derailleur may no longer want to shift all the way onto the big ring or will require a much firmer push to get it there. It is advisable to get the cable tension adjusted as soon as this happens either by your local bike shop. This tune up is considered a necessary part of any bicycles maintenance schedule and as such should not be ignored.

    Brakes

    Your brakes will also be affected by cable stretch (provided of course that they are NOT hydraulic in which case this does not apply). The symptom here is that they usually start to feel quite loose. i.e. you have to pull the lever much further back or harder in order to get the same stopping power you once had. This is partly why new bikes come with a first free service. If your brakes start feeling a little spongy after a few weeks, you can adjust them at the barrel or the clamp or ask a mechanic at your local bike shop to do it for you.

    DISC BRAKES

    New disc brakes won’t deliver their full power until the rotor and pads have bedded in. SRAM has a really good guide for bedding in disc brakes: “Accelerate the bike to a moderate speed and then firmly applying the brakes until you are at walking speed. Repeat this process 20 times. Then accelerate the bike to a faster speed and apply the brakes until you are at walking speed. Repeat this process ten times. It’s important that during this process you never come to a complete stop or lock up the wheels at any point.” Doing this process should drastically improve the performance of your brakes and prepare them for many happy rides.

    CRANKS

    Check the cranks and crank bolts or nut for tightness; grab a crank arm in each hand and try to wiggle them to check for looseness. If there is play in the cranks, the nuts or bolts may need to be tightened. Cranks should be checked after every ride for the first week.

    HEADSET

    A loose headset can be diagnosed by turning the front wheel to point left or right, holding the front brake on, and then rocking the bike backwards and forwards. Hold your fingers between the stem and the frame. Any movement indicates that you need to tighten the headset.

    SADDLE

    Check your seat post is not loose and that you have not exceeded the limit marked on the seat post. Once you have checked these, use an allen key to tighten the seat post clamp. Check the seat is secure by giving it another check once you have finished.

    STEM

    Check that your front wheel and stem do not move independently, and that your handlebar clamp bolts are tight. Perform this check by standing in front of the bike, holding the front wheel between your knees, and twisting the handlebars. You can prevent any movement by tightening the stem bolts and the handlebar clamp with an allen key.

    SUSPENSION FORKS

    Keeping your mountain bike’s suspension maintained is one of the best ways to ensure you’re getting all the performance you can out of your bike. Plus, giving your fork and shock a few seconds of attention here and there can prevent costly repairs or even replacements.

    Dirt is the number one enemy of suspension. After every ride make sure to wipe the seal area and stanchions of your fork and shock. Wipe in a horizontal motion, not vertical as you don’t want to force any debris towards the seals.

    Every few rides double check that your suspension sag is correct, as well as your rebound and compression adjustments. If something has changed, or the adjustments aren’t working as before, some maintenance is likely due.

    Working on your bike at home can seem daunting, and we'd always recommend you take your bike to a qualified mechanic if possible.

     

    TREK MADONE SL 6 GEN 7 CARBON ROAD BIKE 2024 - CRIMSON

    TREK MADONE SL 6 GEN 7 CARBON ROAD BIKE 2024 - CRIMSON

    Regular price £5,338.05
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    Regular price Was £5,625.00 Sale price £5,338.05

    SKU: 5298624

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    Product Description

    The Madone SL 6 offers legendary speed, cutting-edge tech and unbelievable ride quality in a 500 Series OCLV Carbon package that keeps things light and quick for fast road rides and races. IsoFlow technology smooths out bumps in the road while lowering weight and offering an aerodynamic advantage over your competition, and a wealth of super-speedy features like Trek's newest Kammtail aero shapes, an economical Shimano 105 Di2 electronic drivetrain, carbon wheels and invisible hose routing make for a race machine that feels just as fast as it looks.

    You want speed, quality and performance in a more economical package, alongside a carbon frame that turns heads, a high-quality electronic drivetrain, grippy and long-lasting tyres, revolutionary IsoFlow aerodynamics and an all-out aero rig that makes every ride feel like your fastest ride ever.

    A 500 Series OCLV Carbon frame with aero Kammtail tube shaping and revolutionary IsoFlow seat tube, invisible routing, a super fast Shimano 105 Di2 12-speed electronic drivetrain, Bontrager RSL Aero OCLV Carbon handlebars, and Bontrager Aeolus Elite 50 tubeless-ready carbon wheels.

    The Madone SL 6 is a premium race-ready speed demon that's itching to take you on your fastest road rides and races. It belongs at the front of the group setting the pace and conquering KOMs.

    Key Features:

    • 500 Series OCLV Carbon Frame: Trek's super light carbon laminate combines aero performance with low weight.
    • IsoFlow technology: Helps the seat mast and saddle flex for a more comfortable ride while also improving frame aerodynamics and shaving weight.
    • Shimano 105 Di2 GearsProvides affordable electronic shifting performance.

    Full Specifications:

    • Frame: 500 Series OCLV Carbon, KVF (Kammtail Virtual Foil) tube shape, IsoFlow seat tube, invisible cable routing, 3S aero chain keeper, T47 BB, flat-mount disc, 142x12mm thru axle
    • Fork: Madone KVF full carbon, tapered carbon steerer, internal brake routing, flat mount disc, carbon dropouts, 12x100mm thru axle
    • Gear Shifters: Shimano 105 R7170, 12-speed
    • Chainset: Shimano 105 R7100, 50/34, 165 - 175 mm length
    • Rear Cassette: Shimano 105 7101, 11-34, 12-speed
    • Chain: Shimano SLX M7100, 12-speed
    • Front Derailleur: Shimano 105 R7150 Di2, braze-on, down swing
    • Rear Derailleur: Shimano 105 R7150 Di2, 34T max cog
    • Bottom Bracket: Praxis, T47 threaded, internal bearing
    • Pedals: Not supplied
    • Front Wheel: Bontrager Aeolus Elite 50, OCLV Carbon, Tubeless Ready, 100x12mm thru axle
    • RearWheel: Bontrager Aeolus Elite 50, OCLV Carbon, Tubeless Ready, 50 mm rim depth, Shimano 11-speed freehub, 142x12 mm thru axle
    • Tyres: Bontrager R3 Hard-Case Lite, aramid bead, 120 tpi, 700x25 mm
    • Brakes: Shimano RT70, CentreLock, 160 mm
    • Handlebars: Bontrager RSL Aero, OCLV Carbon, 31.8 mm, Di2 routing, 80 mm reach, 124 mm drop, 35- - 41 cm control width, 38 - 44 cm drops width
    • Stem: Trek RCS Pro, -7-degree, 70 - 110 mm length
    • Saddle: Bontrager Aeolus Comp, steel rails, 145 mm width
    • Seatpost: Madone aero carbon seatpost, integrated light mount, 0mm offset, long length
    • Weight: 56 – 8.40 kg/18.52 lb

      We reserve the right to make changes to the product information contained on this site at any time without notice, including with respect to equipment, specifications, models, colours, materials and pricing. Due to supply chain issues, compatible parts may be substituted at any time without notice.

      Bike and frame weights are based on pre-production painted frames at time of publication. Weights may vary in final production.

      How to Build Your Bike

      Aftercare

      After the first few weeks of use, the whole bike will settle down. As a result, the gears may need tweaking, some nuts and bolts may need tightening and you may well need to check the adjustment of the saddle and handlebars.

      CABLE STRETCH

      Gears

      Cable stretch tends to occur shortly after a new bike has been ridden a few times. A rear derailleur that we have tuned to hit every gear, nicely and quietly, may now not be making each shift causing a sensation and sound of “being in between gears”. Generally you may have to shift up, or shift down a couple times to quiet it down and settle the derailleur into a “happy gear”. A front derailleur may no longer want to shift all the way onto the big ring or will require a much firmer push to get it there. It is advisable to get the cable tension adjusted as soon as this happens either by your local bike shop. This tune up is considered a necessary part of any bicycles maintenance schedule and as such should not be ignored.

      Brakes

      Your brakes will also be affected by cable stretch (provided of course that they are NOT hydraulic in which case this does not apply). The symptom here is that they usually start to feel quite loose. i.e. you have to pull the lever much further back or harder in order to get the same stopping power you once had. This is partly why new bikes come with a first free service. If your brakes start feeling a little spongy after a few weeks, you can adjust them at the barrel or the clamp or ask a mechanic at your local bike shop to do it for you.

      DISC BRAKES

      New disc brakes won’t deliver their full power until the rotor and pads have bedded in. SRAM has a really good guide for bedding in disc brakes: “Accelerate the bike to a moderate speed and then firmly applying the brakes until you are at walking speed. Repeat this process 20 times. Then accelerate the bike to a faster speed and apply the brakes until you are at walking speed. Repeat this process ten times. It’s important that during this process you never come to a complete stop or lock up the wheels at any point.” Doing this process should drastically improve the performance of your brakes and prepare them for many happy rides.

      CRANKS

      Check the cranks and crank bolts or nut for tightness; grab a crank arm in each hand and try to wiggle them to check for looseness. If there is play in the cranks, the nuts or bolts may need to be tightened. Cranks should be checked after every ride for the first week.

      HEADSET

      A loose headset can be diagnosed by turning the front wheel to point left or right, holding the front brake on, and then rocking the bike backwards and forwards. Hold your fingers between the stem and the frame. Any movement indicates that you need to tighten the headset.

      SADDLE

      Check your seat post is not loose and that you have not exceeded the limit marked on the seat post. Once you have checked these, use an allen key to tighten the seat post clamp. Check the seat is secure by giving it another check once you have finished.

      STEM

      Check that your front wheel and stem do not move independently, and that your handlebar clamp bolts are tight. Perform this check by standing in front of the bike, holding the front wheel between your knees, and twisting the handlebars. You can prevent any movement by tightening the stem bolts and the handlebar clamp with an allen key.

      SUSPENSION FORKS

      Keeping your mountain bike’s suspension maintained is one of the best ways to ensure you’re getting all the performance you can out of your bike. Plus, giving your fork and shock a few seconds of attention here and there can prevent costly repairs or even replacements.

      Dirt is the number one enemy of suspension. After every ride make sure to wipe the seal area and stanchions of your fork and shock. Wipe in a horizontal motion, not vertical as you don’t want to force any debris towards the seals.

      Every few rides double check that your suspension sag is correct, as well as your rebound and compression adjustments. If something has changed, or the adjustments aren’t working as before, some maintenance is likely due.

      Working on your bike at home can seem daunting, and we'd always recommend you take your bike to a qualified mechanic if possible.