TREK MADONE SLR 9 AXS GEN 7 ROAD BIKE 2024 - METALLIC RED SMOKE TO RED CARBON SMOKE

TREK MADONE SLR 9 AXS GEN 7 ROAD BIKE 2024 - METALLIC RED SMOKE TO RED CARBON SMOKE

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Product Details

AVAILABILITY & ORDER TERMS & CONDITIONS

Madone SLR 7s are none cancellable custom builds with up to 90 day lead time. Please ensure you are ordering the correct size and specification for your requirements as cancellations and returns cannot be accepted as this bike is an  none stock custom item.

Occasionally bikes are in stock at Trek Warehouse, for supply in 7-10 days. If this is the case our stock message will be displayed in green. Please contact us if this is the case and we can verify stock for you.

If this message is in yellow, availability will be up to 90 days from factory.

If you require further assistance prior to ordering contact us at sales@allterraincycles.co.uk or Telephone : 01274 588 488.

The Madone SLR 9 AXS is ultralight, insanely fast and super smooth.

It's the ride you reach for on race day when every watt counts and your eyes are on the top step. This road race bike is built with an 800 Series OCLV Carbon frame and new IsoFlow technology that adds an aerodynamic advantage, cuts weight and smooths the road ahead.

As an official Trek-Segafredo race team replica bike, it's built from the ground up with cream of the crop components, like a SRAM RED eTap AXS wireless drivetrain with a power meter and carbon wheels with a deep rim for even more aerodynamic gains.

Key Features 

  • 800 Series OCLV Carbon Frame: Trek's lightest carbon laminate combines aero performance with low weight
  • Bontrager Aeolus Pro 51 Wheels: Tubeless-ready, 51mm deep-section wheels to slice through the air
  • SRAM RED eTap AXS: Keeps your cockpit clean and tidy while allowing custom tuning – plus, power meter cranks make it easy to track performance metrics

Full Specification

  • Frame: 800 Series OCLV Carbon, KVF (Kammtail Virtual Foil) tube shape, adjustable top tube IsoSpeed, invisible cable routing, 3S aero chain keeper, T47 BB, DuoTrap S-compatible, flat-mount disc, 142x12 mm thru axle
  • Fork: Madone KVF full carbon, tapered carbon steerer, invisible cable routing, flat-mount disc, carbon dropouts, 12x100 mm thru axle
  • Gear Shifters: SRAM RED eTap AXS, 12-speed
  • Chainset: SRAM RED AXS w/ power meter, 48/35, DUB, 165 mm length
  • Rear Cassette: SRAM XG-1290, 10-33, 12-speed
  • Chain: SRAM RED D1, 12-speed
  • Front Derailleur: SRAM RED eTap AXS, braze-on
  • Rear Derailleur: SRAM RED eTap AXS, 36T max cog
  • Bottom Bracket: SRAM DUB, T47 threaded, internal bearing
  • Pedals: Not supplied
  • Front Wheel: Bontrager Aeolus Pro 51, OCLV Carbon, Tubeless Ready, 51mm rim depth, 100x12mm thru axle
  • Rear Wheel: Bontrager Aeolus RSL 51, OCLV Carbon, Tubeless Ready, 51mm rim depth, SRAM XD-R driver, 142x12mm thru axle
  • Tyres: Bontrager R4 320, 700x25c
  • Brakes: SRAM Red eTap AXS hydraulic disc
  • Handlebars: Madone Integrated handlebar/stem, OCLV Carbon, 380mm width, 80mm stem length
  • Handlebar Tape: Bontrager Supertack Perf tape
  • Stem: Madone Integrated handlebar/stem, OCLV Carbon, 380 - 440 mm width, 80 - 110 mm stem length
  • Saddle: Aeolus P2 RSL, carbon rails, 155mm width
  • Seatpost: Madone aero carbon internal seat mast cap, integrated light mount, 0 mm offset, short/long length
  • Weight: 56- 7.36 kg/16.23 lb

We reserve the right to make changes to the product information contained on this site at any time without notice, including with respect to equipment, specifications, models, colours, materials and pricing. Due to supply chain issues, compatible parts may be substituted at any time without notice.

Bike and frame weights are based on pre-production painted frames at time of publication. Weights may vary in final production.

How to Build Your Bike

Aftercare

After the first few weeks of use, the whole bike will settle down. As a result, the gears may need tweaking, some nuts and bolts may need tightening and you may well need to check the adjustment of the saddle and handlebars.

CABLE STRETCH

Gears

Cable stretch tends to occur shortly after a new bike has been ridden a few times. A rear derailleur that we have tuned to hit every gear, nicely and quietly, may now not be making each shift causing a sensation and sound of “being in between gears”. Generally you may have to shift up, or shift down a couple times to quiet it down and settle the derailleur into a “happy gear”. A front derailleur may no longer want to shift all the way onto the big ring or will require a much firmer push to get it there. It is advisable to get the cable tension adjusted as soon as this happens either by your local bike shop. This tune up is considered a necessary part of any bicycles maintenance schedule and as such should not be ignored.

Brakes

Your brakes will also be affected by cable stretch (provided of course that they are NOT hydraulic in which case this does not apply). The symptom here is that they usually start to feel quite loose. i.e. you have to pull the lever much further back or harder in order to get the same stopping power you once had. This is partly why new bikes come with a first free service. If your brakes start feeling a little spongy after a few weeks, you can adjust them at the barrel or the clamp or ask a mechanic at your local bike shop to do it for you.

DISC BRAKES

New disc brakes won’t deliver their full power until the rotor and pads have bedded in. SRAM has a really good guide for bedding in disc brakes: “Accelerate the bike to a moderate speed and then firmly applying the brakes until you are at walking speed. Repeat this process 20 times. Then accelerate the bike to a faster speed and apply the brakes until you are at walking speed. Repeat this process ten times. It’s important that during this process you never come to a complete stop or lock up the wheels at any point.” Doing this process should drastically improve the performance of your brakes and prepare them for many happy rides.

CRANKS

Check the cranks and crank bolts or nut for tightness; grab a crank arm in each hand and try to wiggle them to check for looseness. If there is play in the cranks, the nuts or bolts may need to be tightened. Cranks should be checked after every ride for the first week.

HEADSET

A loose headset can be diagnosed by turning the front wheel to point left or right, holding the front brake on, and then rocking the bike backwards and forwards. Hold your fingers between the stem and the frame. Any movement indicates that you need to tighten the headset.

SADDLE

Check your seat post is not loose and that you have not exceeded the limit marked on the seat post. Once you have checked these, use an allen key to tighten the seat post clamp. Check the seat is secure by giving it another check once you have finished.

STEM

Check that your front wheel and stem do not move independently, and that your handlebar clamp bolts are tight. Perform this check by standing in front of the bike, holding the front wheel between your knees, and twisting the handlebars. You can prevent any movement by tightening the stem bolts and the handlebar clamp with an allen key.

SUSPENSION FORKS

Keeping your mountain bike’s suspension maintained is one of the best ways to ensure you’re getting all the performance you can out of your bike. Plus, giving your fork and shock a few seconds of attention here and there can prevent costly repairs or even replacements.

Dirt is the number one enemy of suspension. After every ride make sure to wipe the seal area and stanchions of your fork and shock. Wipe in a horizontal motion, not vertical as you don’t want to force any debris towards the seals.

Every few rides double check that your suspension sag is correct, as well as your rebound and compression adjustments. If something has changed, or the adjustments aren’t working as before, some maintenance is likely due.

Working on your bike at home can seem daunting, and we'd always recommend you take your bike to a qualified mechanic if possible.

 

TREK MADONE SLR 9 AXS GEN 7 ROAD BIKE 2024 - METALLIC RED SMOKE TO RED CARBON SMOKE

TREK MADONE SLR 9 AXS GEN 7 ROAD BIKE 2024 - METALLIC RED SMOKE TO RED CARBON SMOKE

Regular price £10,999.00
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Regular price Was £14,550.00 Sale price £10,999.00

SKU: 5282909

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Product Description

AVAILABILITY & ORDER TERMS & CONDITIONS

Madone SLR 7s are none cancellable custom builds with up to 90 day lead time. Please ensure you are ordering the correct size and specification for your requirements as cancellations and returns cannot be accepted as this bike is an  none stock custom item.

Occasionally bikes are in stock at Trek Warehouse, for supply in 7-10 days. If this is the case our stock message will be displayed in green. Please contact us if this is the case and we can verify stock for you.

If this message is in yellow, availability will be up to 90 days from factory.

If you require further assistance prior to ordering contact us at sales@allterraincycles.co.uk or Telephone : 01274 588 488.

The Madone SLR 9 AXS is ultralight, insanely fast and super smooth.

It's the ride you reach for on race day when every watt counts and your eyes are on the top step. This road race bike is built with an 800 Series OCLV Carbon frame and new IsoFlow technology that adds an aerodynamic advantage, cuts weight and smooths the road ahead.

As an official Trek-Segafredo race team replica bike, it's built from the ground up with cream of the crop components, like a SRAM RED eTap AXS wireless drivetrain with a power meter and carbon wheels with a deep rim for even more aerodynamic gains.

Key Features 

  • 800 Series OCLV Carbon Frame: Trek's lightest carbon laminate combines aero performance with low weight
  • Bontrager Aeolus Pro 51 Wheels: Tubeless-ready, 51mm deep-section wheels to slice through the air
  • SRAM RED eTap AXS: Keeps your cockpit clean and tidy while allowing custom tuning – plus, power meter cranks make it easy to track performance metrics

Full Specification

  • Frame: 800 Series OCLV Carbon, KVF (Kammtail Virtual Foil) tube shape, adjustable top tube IsoSpeed, invisible cable routing, 3S aero chain keeper, T47 BB, DuoTrap S-compatible, flat-mount disc, 142x12 mm thru axle
  • Fork: Madone KVF full carbon, tapered carbon steerer, invisible cable routing, flat-mount disc, carbon dropouts, 12x100 mm thru axle
  • Gear Shifters: SRAM RED eTap AXS, 12-speed
  • Chainset: SRAM RED AXS w/ power meter, 48/35, DUB, 165 mm length
  • Rear Cassette: SRAM XG-1290, 10-33, 12-speed
  • Chain: SRAM RED D1, 12-speed
  • Front Derailleur: SRAM RED eTap AXS, braze-on
  • Rear Derailleur: SRAM RED eTap AXS, 36T max cog
  • Bottom Bracket: SRAM DUB, T47 threaded, internal bearing
  • Pedals: Not supplied
  • Front Wheel: Bontrager Aeolus Pro 51, OCLV Carbon, Tubeless Ready, 51mm rim depth, 100x12mm thru axle
  • Rear Wheel: Bontrager Aeolus RSL 51, OCLV Carbon, Tubeless Ready, 51mm rim depth, SRAM XD-R driver, 142x12mm thru axle
  • Tyres: Bontrager R4 320, 700x25c
  • Brakes: SRAM Red eTap AXS hydraulic disc
  • Handlebars: Madone Integrated handlebar/stem, OCLV Carbon, 380mm width, 80mm stem length
  • Handlebar Tape: Bontrager Supertack Perf tape
  • Stem: Madone Integrated handlebar/stem, OCLV Carbon, 380 - 440 mm width, 80 - 110 mm stem length
  • Saddle: Aeolus P2 RSL, carbon rails, 155mm width
  • Seatpost: Madone aero carbon internal seat mast cap, integrated light mount, 0 mm offset, short/long length
  • Weight: 56- 7.36 kg/16.23 lb

We reserve the right to make changes to the product information contained on this site at any time without notice, including with respect to equipment, specifications, models, colours, materials and pricing. Due to supply chain issues, compatible parts may be substituted at any time without notice.

Bike and frame weights are based on pre-production painted frames at time of publication. Weights may vary in final production.

How to Build Your Bike

Aftercare

After the first few weeks of use, the whole bike will settle down. As a result, the gears may need tweaking, some nuts and bolts may need tightening and you may well need to check the adjustment of the saddle and handlebars.

CABLE STRETCH

Gears

Cable stretch tends to occur shortly after a new bike has been ridden a few times. A rear derailleur that we have tuned to hit every gear, nicely and quietly, may now not be making each shift causing a sensation and sound of “being in between gears”. Generally you may have to shift up, or shift down a couple times to quiet it down and settle the derailleur into a “happy gear”. A front derailleur may no longer want to shift all the way onto the big ring or will require a much firmer push to get it there. It is advisable to get the cable tension adjusted as soon as this happens either by your local bike shop. This tune up is considered a necessary part of any bicycles maintenance schedule and as such should not be ignored.

Brakes

Your brakes will also be affected by cable stretch (provided of course that they are NOT hydraulic in which case this does not apply). The symptom here is that they usually start to feel quite loose. i.e. you have to pull the lever much further back or harder in order to get the same stopping power you once had. This is partly why new bikes come with a first free service. If your brakes start feeling a little spongy after a few weeks, you can adjust them at the barrel or the clamp or ask a mechanic at your local bike shop to do it for you.

DISC BRAKES

New disc brakes won’t deliver their full power until the rotor and pads have bedded in. SRAM has a really good guide for bedding in disc brakes: “Accelerate the bike to a moderate speed and then firmly applying the brakes until you are at walking speed. Repeat this process 20 times. Then accelerate the bike to a faster speed and apply the brakes until you are at walking speed. Repeat this process ten times. It’s important that during this process you never come to a complete stop or lock up the wheels at any point.” Doing this process should drastically improve the performance of your brakes and prepare them for many happy rides.

CRANKS

Check the cranks and crank bolts or nut for tightness; grab a crank arm in each hand and try to wiggle them to check for looseness. If there is play in the cranks, the nuts or bolts may need to be tightened. Cranks should be checked after every ride for the first week.

HEADSET

A loose headset can be diagnosed by turning the front wheel to point left or right, holding the front brake on, and then rocking the bike backwards and forwards. Hold your fingers between the stem and the frame. Any movement indicates that you need to tighten the headset.

SADDLE

Check your seat post is not loose and that you have not exceeded the limit marked on the seat post. Once you have checked these, use an allen key to tighten the seat post clamp. Check the seat is secure by giving it another check once you have finished.

STEM

Check that your front wheel and stem do not move independently, and that your handlebar clamp bolts are tight. Perform this check by standing in front of the bike, holding the front wheel between your knees, and twisting the handlebars. You can prevent any movement by tightening the stem bolts and the handlebar clamp with an allen key.

SUSPENSION FORKS

Keeping your mountain bike’s suspension maintained is one of the best ways to ensure you’re getting all the performance you can out of your bike. Plus, giving your fork and shock a few seconds of attention here and there can prevent costly repairs or even replacements.

Dirt is the number one enemy of suspension. After every ride make sure to wipe the seal area and stanchions of your fork and shock. Wipe in a horizontal motion, not vertical as you don’t want to force any debris towards the seals.

Every few rides double check that your suspension sag is correct, as well as your rebound and compression adjustments. If something has changed, or the adjustments aren’t working as before, some maintenance is likely due.

Working on your bike at home can seem daunting, and we'd always recommend you take your bike to a qualified mechanic if possible.