X-Caliber 9 is the top-end model in the X-Caliber family. It's a fully race-ready cross-country mountain bike built with parts designed to compete. A RockShox Recon fork, a 1x12 Shimano XT/SLX drivetrain and a wide-range cassette make it a great choice for fast singletrack riders who want a great bike that's ready to race straight out of the box.

It's right for you if...

You measure your rides in speed and distance, and want a fast XC bike that will help you cover more trail in less time. You race, or you could see yourself getting into racing, so you want a hardtail with competition-level parts that can give you an advantage on the trail.

The tech you get

A lightweight aluminium frame, a RockShox Recon Gold RL100 mm suspension air fork and a Shimano XT/SLX 1x12 drivetrain with a wide range of gears for easier climbing. Plus, tubeless-ready wheels with wider Boost141 hubs for increased wheel strength and better tyre clearance, and a dropper post for getting low on descents.

The final word

The X-Caliber 9 is a speedy, nimble and efficient XC hardtail that's perfect for riders with a racing pedigree and anyone who dreams of covering epic distances out on the trail.

Why you'll love it

• It's a great bike for someone who's just getting into serious racing: you get high-end XC parts on an incredible frame with enough cash left over for entry fees
• There's nothing as sweet as a silent ride: the clutch rear derailleur prevents chain slap, even in the rough
• The frame is fully compatible with higher-end parts, like racing wheels, if you ever find the need to upgrade
• The 1x drivetrain delivers a wide range of gearing with the simplicity of a single shifter
• The 1x drivetrain delivers a wide range of gearing with the simplicity of a single shifter

• Shimano 1x12 Drivetrain: Delivers a wide range of gearing with the simplicity of a single shifter.
• Hydraulic Disc Brakes: Powerful stopping capacity to keep you in control.
• Aluminium Frame: Lightweight & Durable

• Frame: Alpha Gold Aluminium, tapered head tube, internal derailleur and dropper post routing, rack and kickstand mount, Boost141, 5 mm QR
• Rear Shock (If Applicable):N/A
• Fork: RockShox Recon Gold RL, DebonAir spring, Motion Control damper, lockout, tapered steerer, 37-42 mm offset, Boost 110, 15 mm Maxle Stealth, 100 mm travel
• Number of Gears: 12
• Gear Shifters: Shimano SLX M7100, 12-speed
• Chainset: Shimano MT611, Boost
• Chainrings: 30T Steel
• Rear Cassette: Shimano SLX M7100, 10-51, 12-speed
• Chain: Shimano SLX M7100, 12-speed
• Front Derailleur: N/A
• Rear Derailleur: Shimano XT M8100, long cage, 51T max cog
• Bottom Bracket:  Shimano SM-BB52, 73 mm, threaded external bearing
• Pedals: VP-536 nylon platform
• Rims: Bontrager Kovee, double-wall, Tubeless Ready, 28-hole front, 32 hole rear 23 mm width, Presta valve
• Front Hub: Bontrager alloy, sealed bearing, alloy axle, 6-bolt, Boost110, 15 mm thru axle
• Rear Hub: Bontrager alloy, sealed bearing, 6-bolt, Shimano MicroSpline freehub, Boost141, 5 mm QR
• Front Tyre: Maxxis Ardent Race, tubeless, EXO casing, folding bead, 60tpi, 27.5x2.35"
• Rear Tyre: Maxxis Ardent Race, tubeless, EXO casing, folding bead, 60tpi, 27.5x2.35"
• Brakes: Shimano hydraulic disc, MT4100/401 levers, MT410/400 callipers
• Handlebars: Bontrager alloy, 31.8 mm, 5 mm rise
• Handlebar Grips: Bontrager XR Trail Comp, nylon lock-on
• Headset: Semi-integrated, loose ball bearing, 1-1/8" top, 1.5" bottom
• Stem: Bontrager Elite, 31.8 mm, Blendr-compatible, 7-degree
• Saddle: Bontrager Arvada, steel rails, 138 mm width
• Seatpost: TranzX JD-YSP18, 100-130mm travel, internal routing, 31.6 mm, 361-425 mm length
• Accessories: N/A
• Weight: M - 27.60 lb / 12.52 kg (with TLR sealant, no tubes)

We reserve the right to make changes to the product information contained on this site at any time without notice, including with respect to equipment, specifications, models, colours, materials and pricing. Due to supply chain issues, compatible parts may be substituted at any time without notice.

Bike and frame weights are based on pre-production painted frames at time of publication. Weights may vary in final production.

After the first few weeks of use, the whole bike will settle down. As a result, the gears may need tweaking, some nuts and bolts may need tightening and you may well need to check the adjustment of the saddle and handlebars.

CABLE STRETCH

Gears

Cable stretch tends to occur shortly after a new bike has been ridden a few times. A rear derailleur that we have tuned to hit every gear, nicely and quietly, may now not be making each shift causing a sensation and sound of “being in between gears”. Generally you may have to shift up, or shift down a couple times to quiet it down and settle the derailleur into a “happy gear”. A front derailleur may no longer want to shift all the way onto the big ring or will require a much firmer push to get it there. It is advisable to get the cable tension adjusted as soon as this happens either by your local bike shop. This tune up is considered a necessary part of any bicycles maintenance schedule and as such should not be ignored.

Brakes

Your brakes will also be affected by cable stretch (provided of course that they are NOT hydraulic in which case this does not apply). The symptom here is that they usually start to feel quite loose. i.e. you have to pull the lever much further back or harder in order to get the same stopping power you once had. This is partly why new bikes come with a first free service. If your brakes start feeling a little spongy after a few weeks, you can adjust them at the barrel or the clamp or ask a mechanic at your local bike shop to do it for you.

DISC BRAKES

New disc brakes won’t deliver their full power until the rotor and pads have bedded in. SRAM has a really good guide for bedding in disc brakes: “Accelerate the bike to a moderate speed and then firmly applying the brakes until you are at walking speed. Repeat this process 20 times. Then accelerate the bike to a faster speed and apply the brakes until you are at walking speed. Repeat this process ten times. It’s important that during this process you never come to a complete stop or lock up the wheels at any point.” Doing this process should drastically improve the performance of your brakes and prepare them for many happy rides.

CRANKS

Check the cranks and crank bolts or nut for tightness; grab a crank arm in each hand and try to wiggle them to check for looseness. If there is play in the cranks, the nuts or bolts may need to be tightened. Cranks should be checked after every ride for the first week.

HEADSET

A loose headset can be diagnosed by turning the front wheel to point left or right, holding the front brake on, and then rocking the bike backwards and forwards. Hold your fingers between the stem and the frame. Any movement indicates that you need to tighten the headset.

SADDLE

Check your seat post is not loose and that you have not exceeded the limit marked on the seat post. Once you have checked these, use an allen key to tighten the seat post clamp. Check the seat is secure by giving it another check once you have finished.

STEM

Check that your front wheel and stem do not move independently, and that your handlebar clamp bolts are tight. Perform this check by standing in front of the bike, holding the front wheel between your knees, and twisting the handlebars. You can prevent any movement by tightening the stem bolts and the handlebar clamp with an allen key.

SUSPENSION FORKS

Keeping your mountain bike’s suspension maintained is one of the best ways to ensure you’re getting all the performance you can out of your bike. Plus, giving your fork and shock a few seconds of attention here and there can prevent costly repairs or even replacements.

Dirt is the number one enemy of suspension. After every ride make sure to wipe the seal area and stanchions of your fork and shock. Wipe in a horizontal motion, not vertical as you don’t want to force any debris towards the seals.

Every few rides double check that your suspension sag is correct, as well as your rebound and compression adjustments. If something has changed, or the adjustments aren’t working as before, some maintenance is likely due.

Working on your bike at home can seem daunting, and we'd always recommend you take your bike to a qualified mechanic if possible.